How much propane goes in a 20# tank?

I need somebody to clear this up. How much propane is supposed to go inside a 20# BBQ tank? I know they are not supposed to be filled beyond 80%. What I don't know is that 20 pounds before or after the 80%? Can you put a full 20 pounds in or is it just 16?

What is your advice for someone getting into the HVAC trade?

Hi, I am a senior in high school and recently I decided to get into the trade of HVAC. Ive done some research, applied to a community college near me...

Is using a thermal camera an effective method to locate mold & moisture

My basement is finished and there are signs that I have leaks or some mold behind the finished walls. The smell is not very strong but I can feel it for the first few seconds when I enter the basement, after that it instantly disappears in the sense that I can not smell it anymore. I am planning to rent a infrared thermal camera to see if this can help with locating the problem. Is such a camera effective in these situations ? PS: I have also seen some DIY or consumer grade cameras which can be attached to an android phone in order to get the infrared picture. Has anyone tested these ? Any links to what you tested would be much appreciated I am planning to rent one of these: http://www.thermalcamerarentals.com/rental-cameras.html

Carrier weathermaker 8000 code 32

Carrier weathermaker 8000 model 58tma-10016 Code 32. Low pressure switch. Inducer motor tries to start after 105 second run up cycle. If I...

Insulated rim joists, should I add cavity insulation too?

I insulated all the rim joists before framing my basement walls. I used foamboard, PL300 and Great Stuff foam to adhere and seal the foamboard to the rim joist area. I did NOT put cavity insulation back in (most of the fiberglass I pulled out was unusable) Im now working on lighting in the finished ceiling, so I have access to a lot of the joist bays, albeit from 2' away. Should I take this (final) opportunity to shove cavity insulation up to the foamboard? Could I use blown in instead (blow it in from the 2' away and fill that 2' with blown in)? Or do I really not have much to gain either way? Note this is a finished basement with a finished drywall ceiling (Im adding another layer of drywall over the existing because I dont feel like trying to patch holes and get rid of texture) Thanks in advance.

Optimal Delta T Levels?

Is a Delta T differential of about 16 to 18 acceptable under most conditions? I think I've read that 15-20 is a good range. Is it worth the...

Adding a utility sink next to the washer...

Just bought an older house with basement laundry hookups... below is a picture of the piping in that area... can I add a utility sink and share the drain that the washer uses? Attachment 39183 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/toilets-sinks-showers-dishwashers-tubs-garbage-disposals/39183-adding-utility-sink-next-washer-imag3220.jpg) Attachment 39184 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/toilets-sinks-showers-dishwashers-tubs-garbage-disposals/39184-adding-utility-sink-next-washer-imag3218.jpg) Thanks! Jeff

Wanted......Daikin Service Checker

Need the Daikin Service Checker. Prefer software too but I have an older software version already. Send me PM with pics and price wanted. Thanks

Shed pier foundation quesiton

Hello, I am going to be building a 12 wide x10 deep shed with a 12/12 pitch roof and have a question about the foundation. I live in the upper midwest where we have hot summers and very cold winters so frost heave is an issue. I will be using nine 8"x4' concrete piers for a number of reasons. The bottom of the shed will sit on 3 treated 4x4x10s (as all shed plans have called for that I have reviewed) I have not found a definitive answer on the best approach with this method - here are my questions. Many people have said that between piers there should be concrete blocks to support the skids. This is confusing to me, and counterintuitive. Yes, I understand that adds support, but doesn't that create issues when there is frost heave?

is this a load bearing wall ?

is this a load bearing wall? I'm considering removing the wood spindles/columns and removing that portion of the wall to open up the room Attachment 39176 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/carpentry-cabinetry-interior-woodworking/39176-load-bearing-wall-dsc05591.jpg)

Moonbeam Brown signs gun law, family members have Constitutional power over you in Ca

https://news.yahoo.com/california-governor-signs-gun-violence-retraining-order-law-222148667.html;_ylt=A86.JyKOSCtUh28ATFYPxQt.;_ylu=X3oDMTByaDNhc2JxB...

Circulating pump not working properly

Hi, question for the experts... I have a groundfos circulator pump which isn't working properly. I took off the motor to trouble shoot and found that when the thermostat activates the pump, it doesn't start pumping, however, if I give it a little spin, it starts up and the motor takes over. Do I need a new pump, or is there another "fix" for this issue? Thanks all!

Random Hot Leads in GFI Box

So I've been trying to trace why a kitchen outlet and outdoor outlet (in close proximity to each other) no longer work since my kitchen remodel last year. About 3 feet above the no-longer-working outlet is a new GFI that works fine. Suspicious, I pulled off the plate and unscrewed the GFI outlet and found a BUNCH of wires in there. Before investigating further, I shut power to the GFI at the breaker and ran my current tester over them to be sure they were cold. I think pulled out the outlet (which had 3 black/3 white pigtailed together and singles to the GFI. All well and good. Then I noticed that deep, deep in the back of the box was another set of leads (1 black/white/ground.) Low and behold, these were still hot. I suspect that when the kitchen was remodeled, the construction guys found these wires, didn't know what they powered, so capped them, stuck them in box and ran new romex for the GFI. And hoped that I didn't find out what didn't work anymore until they were gone. Honestly, I'm unsure what to do next. I'm hesitant to attach a hot lead to a GFI that already has it's own power and it's own breaker. Can I do that? Suggestions?

New HVAC Mobile App!

Diedrich Research has been hired by a leading national HVAC tool manufacturer to help *develop a new mobile app designed specifically for you!* The...

Refrigerant Producers, Systems Manufacturers Meet at White House to Discuss Alternat

Johnson Controls“We applaud the Administration and the regulatory agencies for taking a collaborative approach with industry to manage the...

Pir motion sensor-60-639-95r

Have a concord 4 panel and installed60-639-95R.Went to learn sensor and open unit and received chirp from keypad. Installed in group 15. I set up detector in long hallway. The question is,does the red light suppose to come on only when alarm is set.Not sure if red light only come on when alarm is set (would save battery power) or suppose to be on all the time,when some one walks by.

Trane VSEE vav

i went to look at a job today, they are wanting to up grade there controls to I-vu. They have the trane VSEE vav boxes ( fan power and no fan boxes...

Service upgrade or sub panel?

Hi there everyone, My question is about how to add a hot tub to my panel that is maxed out on breaker space. I have a 200 amp main GE panel(quad breaker) and I am currently pulling 100 amps on one leg right now. I have a tankless water heater, 3 A/C spaces and another 2 water heaters. Square footage is 2800 if you need that. I will be posting pics here shortly. Thank you. Let me know what other info you need? Do I need to upgrade service or can I just add a sub panel?

MS Word2013 & Web Content

Tried to copy some pictures from the web to a new document with Ctrl+C / Ctrl+V and I can see the picture in the Read Mode but not in the Print Layout where I can write my comments etc. Is there a special setting to do this?

AX Metasys MIG and McQuay Loop water contontroller

I'm converting an existing site from a Metasys NCM to an FX70. The NCM is integrating to a few McQuay OPM panels with a MIG and also a McQuay loop...

In need of a Trane chiller conrol board

Hello everybody, I am writing to see if anybody out there can help me find a compressor I/O board that needs replacing. These boards are no longer...

New baseboard heater wiring

I purchased a new baseboard heater for a spare room (Dimplex LPC with built in therm). The old heater never worked so the wires were just closed off with nuts. I have 2 supply lines and confused as to which one to use for the install. I assume 1 is for a thermostat but both lines are cut just long enough for a heater on the floor. I have tried wiring each supply line and closing off the other with nuts, but I have no power to the heater. The instructions do say the connections must be made on the right side, but I am going on the left which does have a junction. Customer service for the company is non existent.

DIY Carved Pumpkin Planters Tutorial

It&s officially pumpkin season! One of our favorite ways to decorate for fall is through the use of pumpkins and brightly colored autumn plant varieties. Today we&ll share how simple it can be to combine these two classic seasonal staples to …...

Wiring Diagram help

Hey, I'm trying to figure out how to draw a wiring diagram for the attached pictures, but can't figure out how to have multiple things coming off the four way switch. If anyone could help that would be much appreciated. Wasn't sure which forum to use, sorry. Attachment 39161 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/electrical-ac-dc/39161-wiring-diagram-help-img_0490.jpg) Attachment 39160 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/electrical-ac-dc/39160-wiring-diagram-help-img_0491.jpg)

Hair's the Deal: Facial Hair, Yes or No?

Charlie Greer Do you let your HVACR technicians wear beards, moustaches, or long hair? You should know that, right or wrong, facial hair...

Moduline Carrier Terminal Air Distribution System-Issue

I have Carrier moduline Terminal in one of my building for air distribution. I have been having some issues with them as when the RTU that supplies...

Basement Wiring

I am remodeling my basement replacing old ceiling with drywall. It had 3 light's run off of old type wiring, dropped in center of basement rafters, then it was wrapped & taped to the 3 lights. It is controlled by switch on top of staircase. I am putting 6 new Halo's in with new wiring on its own circuit from the main panel. I want to put a 7th Halo at the bottom of the stairs using the old wiring controlled by the stair switch. Do I put the old wires in a junction box tied to new wires going to the 1 Halo? If so do I need to have a small opening access door in the drywall ceiling for the concealed box. Is there any other way of doing this with out the access door in the ceiling? In my new wiring in the rafters from Halo to Halo lighting can I use NM-B Romex, or do I need to use Metal Clad or Armored cable? Thanks, Ed Bay Village,Ohio.

sub panel or larger panel?

I have 100 amp panel with only 12 breaker spots. I am finishing my basement and will be adding lighting and outlets. I'm not popping breakers or anything right now and it isn't a large house so I was thinking a larger panel with more breaker spaces would suffice. But I was wondering if I could just get away with adding a subpanel to run the basement and skip getting the power company out to pull the meter. Which would you recommend?

Niagara control system

Hello control gurus, I have Niagara Jace control system and I tried to login, but I have been blocked by Application security setting. This is the...

Trane XL14c vs XL16c??

I've narrowed my search down to one of these two units and am wondering if the 16c is worth the extra cost over the 14c? This is a 3 Ton gas pack...

fluorescent lamp socket confusion

Hello members, Recently a fluorescent lamp failed and I decided to replace it - I do not remember how but I managed to remove the lamp. Now I have bought a new lamp (T8) to replace - however I have failed to understand how this lamp would install. The socket seemed linear, but the black lock inside would not rotate. The lamp pins would also not fit the centre (snap in type). Please see attached picture of the socket. Attachment 39148 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/lighting-light-fixtures-ceiling-exhaust-fans/39148-fluorescent-lamp-socket-confusion-photo.jpg) Appreciate your help and advice.

RS-485 Data cable sizes

We have an RS-485 controls riser that is shielded 22 Gauge stranded On three floors we connected off of the riser N2 comm cards on Eaton...

2013 Cadillac CTS

Hi all, has anyone experienced a starting problem with a 2013 CTS? intermittent completely dead when attempting to start. Thanks Geo

Concealed setpoint thermostat

I have a spec for hot water radiation thermostats to be low voltage, "bi-metal mercury type", with a concealed setpoint. It must also be mounted on...

I'm at a standstill due to bathroom wiring dilemma!

I have opened up my bath with studs and ceiling exposed. I have one power source going into the room. I have a: 1. VENTILATION FAN/Light/Night light 2. 3 switch for one gang box 3. Vanity light that I wish tied to Main Light in Fan 4. Separate shower lights 5. Single switch for shower lights I have new 12/3 wire and 12/2 wire. I know I'm going to split the power source to the shower light switch and to the 3 switch. Can someone look at the diagram below and tell me how to wire the 3 switch to the ventilation fan with a the power line.

boiler recir pump

will not shut off and runs all the time til i shut off power at switch, could this be the thermostat

i need rmo c-20 in los angeles

hi i am looking for my business r.m.o c-20 in los angeles if interested please contact pzion7@gmail.com thank you.

clean spark arrestor in a Craftsman trimmer

I have a craftsman model 358.795800 bushwhacker 32cc trimmer and would like to clean the spark arrestor since I have read that it will avoid many problems.The problem is I'm not sure this unit has one and if it does I have no idea of how to access it, even though I know it resides in the muffler. I have seen videos of other brands and to access the arrestor screen all you need to do is simply to remove the muffler guard which is either a pull out cover or accessed by removing a couple of screws. But in this model I see no way of accessing the muffler short of a major dis-assembly. Can someone shed some light into how to access the screen and clean it? Is it easy to remove? Thanks

Suggestions for best online residential and commercial heat load calculation chart

I'm trying to locate a good site to purchase a dependable heat load calculation chart for both residential and commercial in the Hampton roads...

In search of a tiny light socket

I'm working on creating a beer bottle lamp (hopefully not as cheesey as it sounds) and the piece that is still eluding me is finding a socket that is small enough to fit through the neck of a beer bottle. The diameter of the opening at the top of a standard bottle is just over 1/2 inch, so I am trying to find a socket that ideally meets the following qualifications: 1) The socket must be less than .5 inches in diameter at the widest part of the housing. 2) Has a threaded end that can be screwed on to a standard 1/8" nipple. Below is an image of a lamp that showcase a similar design to the one I am trying to configure: Attachment 39136 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/lighting-light-fixtures-ceiling-exhaust-fans/39136-search-tiny-light-socket-bulb.jpg)

What kind of electrical outlet is this? (Old home)

The outlet is loose and I would like to at least fix that. But I have never seen something like this before. Attachment 39127 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/electrical-ac-dc/39127-what-kind-electrical-outlet-old-home-10387313_10154678806990010_410645643516348757_n.jpg) Attachment 39128 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/electrical-ac-dc/39128-what-kind-electrical-outlet-old-home-10387475_10154678806985010_8388430111603598094_n.jpg)

Door drifting down after opening

I have a Genie PRO951C/A. After the opener reaches upper limit and shuts off, it allows the door to drift down a couple of inches. Those inches are needed to get my truck through.

Bosch 2 Stage Geo Split System W/ Lennox EL296

6 ton Bosch Geo Split Lennox EL296 on LP 40 Gal Preheat Tank Powered Humidifier Closed Loop, Non Pressurized Attachment 516381...

Bedroom registers

Should I use a round or square registers in bedroom ceilings? We just had a heating system installed in a cottage we are renovating. The first contractor ran a trunk line in the attic with a round flexible duct to each of the bedrooms. In the bedrooms the duct passes through a metal plate with a round hole. It would then use a round register. We had to fire the contractor due to some quality issues. The person we hired to fix the job suggested we put an 8x8 box with a square register in each of the rooms. Which type of register would work best for a bedroom? Would one allow the better adjustment? Does it matter?

American Standard RTU

American Standard model #TSC 120 On the roof doing preventive maintenance today I noticed that the filters in this unit looked as clean as new. I...

PCBs Burn Real Good...

When you put a 50 amp breaker on a 30 amp system... Attachment 516331 (http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=516331) - Sent via...

Windows 8.1 Annoying Message

I have set the UAC slider bar setting to the bottom (Never Notify me) but still every time I copy folders / files or other tasks in the Explorer I get this message “You need Admin rights….” And I have to click continue to complete my task. I’m the admin and the only user on my laptop How can I get rid of this annoying message? In addition, this message is never in focus and I have to go to the Taskbar, click to bring it in focus and then click continue. Should any warning message be in focus? I saw a similar article on the web but it was related to windows 7 and to correct the problem you had to edit the registry. I don’t mind to do so but I don’t know if the registry entries are the same in both OS’s

Geothermal closed loop issues..

Bosch 2 ton geothermal, closed loop, supply & return pumps. Recieved a service call that the customers living room is not cooling like it was. Upon...

Prep and paint stucco

I have a buddy that has an older house that has stucco. He is planing to paint it (it is painted now) and is going to get his paint from a paint store. He was asking me how I would wash and clean the stucco to get it ready for paint. He was thinking of using a pressure washer but I suggested a garden hose, some TSP and a stiff broom. Am I off base?

Gas Heating (Force Hot Water) Filter?

Hi everyone, I'm a total newbie at this since I just bought my first house so please bear with me: I have gas heating with force hot water, do I need to replace the filters (the oil filters) periodically? Do filters for my system even exist? I've taken some pictures, hopefully someone can help me identify... Attachment 39100 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/gas-oil-home-heating-furnaces/39100-gas-heating-force-hot-water-filter-img_1322-2-.jpg) Here's a wider picture of the entire system:

Alternates to Trace 700 or System Analyzer

What alternatives are out there to Trane's Trace 700 or System Analyzer? It seems like the small MEP firms become beholden to Trane when they use...

Smell in basement from drain tile pit (not septic smell)

Have a musty type odor (not from septic) just our drain tile system pit. I know it's just from stagnant water and humidity added to the air. So we could try using a humidifier I know. We have tried bailing it (we have never had enough water to warrant a pump, but it does collect some water, always some there). Have tried bleach in the water as well. Read about a sealed, vented cover. It came with a slotted cover which snaps on top of the pit. Don't know about venting it. Wondering if anyone has other solutions to the musty smell. It is in the basement of a tri-level house (tri-level with basement). Gilly

Garage exhaust fan recommendation

Hello, I am looking for a solution to remove hot air from my garage. I have a piece of equipment in the garage that builds a generous amount of...

true model tac48 short cycling?

I'm fairly new to the refrigeration side of the business. I have a True tac-48 sandwich cooler that the store says temp is fluctuating between 30 and...

Thermostat wiring Ritetemp 6020 Hyperion TAM4 to Trane heat pump

All, thanks for this great resource. My issue is the airhandler is turning on the Aux heet and the cooling simultaniously. We have changed multiple settings and the fuse blows. The heat pump wires to the handler suggest Black (x2), orange, Red, Blue, Yellow. with the black(x2) to W1-White and combine all W1.W2.W3 together. I have one state heat and Aux heet. The air handler has YO,B,R,O,YI,G and again combine W1W2W3. the rite temp used to work with the old system ( changed out) B,O,W,Y,R,H,G. Since the 5A fuse kept blowing we disabled the heet side. Now that the temps are declined i need heet. my installer is not available. Is this solvable over the Net. Best. Tad

Carrier Infinity - manual J

Having an Infinity Greenspeed Heat Pump (dual fuel) put in soon. Replacing an 8 year old Carrier single speed A/C with Propane Heat (wanting to get...

wood is decyaing from water and ice/snow

Some bannisters have been exposed to the weather for around 10 years without any maintenance. The wood was treated so it's on ok condition but the top of the wood, the part of the bannister that probably has rain, ice, and snow on it for long periods has started to crack/fall out. I would like to sand these down and re-varnish them to protect them but what should I do with the top of the bannister? Can I fill these with wood filler and varnish them or would a better waterproof product be more suitable?

Carrier Inifinity System

My thermostat for my carrier infinity system is displaying "System Malfunction Call Technician". I held the side button for 3 seconds to see what the...

AC DC wall adapter question: HELP

hello all im not that savvy on electrical stuff when it involves adapters we have a water softener unit for the house and i believe the adapter has gone bad, not sure how to test if its bad or its the actual circuit board thats gone bad. the picture attached is the adapter, i also have many adapters from other devices that work and was wondering if i need an exact match when it comes to the input and output info on the adapter or what am i looking for exactly not to burn the board. any help would be super awesome. and thanks alot

Furnace rise temp change after AC upgrade

Amana furnace (AMVC951155) was installed last year by local large company (my long time service provider). Installed HW Prestige IAQ stat with duct...

Patio Wall leak. Help..!!!

Hi, This is my first thread on the forum and this is my first house so please excuse me if I end up asking silly questions. I have a patio on the 2nd floor right above my garage. 2 side of the patio shares common wall with two room on the 2nd floor. The other two side are facing the street. I guess they are about 4 feet wall and seems like water is leaking from the top of that wall into my garage. Also this wall are not block wall. They are wooden with stucco on it. Please see the following pictures. Two wall facing the street:

How do I patch a cement staircase?

A piece of cement has fallen off the staircase in front of my house (pic below). I just bought the house, so I don't know the history, but it looks like someone attempted to patch it before. How do I go about repairing? I'm guessing that I'll need to chisel the hole out, reinforce, and patch. I'm very handy, but haven't done any masonry work before. Is this something I should be able to handle? Here are my specific questions.... 1. How far, and what shape do I need to chisel out? 2. Do I need to add reinforcement? Rebar? What do I tie it into? 3. What should I use to patch? Regular cement?

Duct repair or replace in Houston

Now that the weather has cooled a bit it is time to do something about the AC ducts. House is a one story 2200sq ft ranch with mostly (there are...

Looking at buying a house and need help.

The four Nordyne units have amanuf. # of the following: I have 4 nordyne units and need to know age. All natural gas heat and electric air. Manuf....

HELP with landscape drain installation

I installed roughly 90' of corrugated drainage pipes in my yard yesterday. See pic. The drain will carry water from gutter downspouts to my street. I also added a few catch basins to collect excess water. Before filling the drain line with dirt, I did a test run by adding water from water hose to make sure there were no leaks, etc. When I did this, I notice a few leaky areas in places where I connected the pipes (since I bought them in sections of 10'). Can anyone tell me why the leaks? each section of pipes were connected correctly. Is this an indication that there is not enough slope in my lines? Please help...this is really bothering me! thanks!!!Attachment 39061 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/lawns-landscaping-outdoor-decor/39061-help-landscape-drain-installation-img_4612.jpg)

Changing my thermostats

Hello guys I want to change my neptronic thermostat so I would be able to control it via a third party system. Any thermostat with IR/Wi-Fi/Serial interface is acceptable. I have sent to NEST they believe it is not compatible I don't have any experience with HVAC and thermostats The TRO5404 thermostat is as per the link: http://www.neptronic.com/pdf/Controls%20TRO5404.pdf

ECM bench testing

have a zebra VZ-7 tester. Is there a way to bench test ECM motors, possibly using Zebra VZ-7?

discolored neutral bus screws

I tried to show in the photo below where I have about 4 screws (red lines point to them) on my neutral bus that have a whitish residue on the tops of the screwheads. They are not as shiny as the other screws. Kind of reminds of me of the metal loosing it shiny plateing. I assume this is caused by moisture/humidity which I have hopefully addressed by sealing the conduit into the panel. The discolorization is not on the bus itself and its not on the threads of the screws or on the wires themselves... just the screw heads. Also 2 of the 4 screws that exhibit this discolorization, do not have wires terminated in them. Is this something I should be concerned about? Attachment 39056 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/electrical-ac-dc/39056-discolored-neutral-bus-screws-444.jpg)

Republicans and the right vs Democrats and the left

Words of wisdom. A Little Bible Study "Left" and "Right" Jesus told Peter that if he wanted to catch fish do it from the right side of the...

Rocket stove heater

Anyone try making one, need a small heater for my basement, the rocket heater looks like a good way to heat with a lot less wood, and they burn very clean. Think I will get a few propane tanks, and start makeing one.

New home efficiency questions

Hi, I'm a new member with a few questions about maximizing efficiency. We're about to close on a new home, and due the area we wanted to buy...

Ground bus

I have a 200 amp Square D main panel and recently I found that some water had been seeping into the panel through my main cable from the meter. That has been repaired. However, the ground bus (I guess that's what it's called)on the left side of the breakers has become corroded. Do I need to replace it and if so how do I do that? So far as far as I can tell everything in the house is working fine. Must I turn off the main breakers before I remove the old bus? I have done quite a bit of electrical work but have never done something like that. Thanks. Rich

30GXR Comunicación Failiure

HiAttachment 516071 (http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=516071)Attachment 516081...

Niagara AX - Disable alarms temporarily via wired input or screen toggle.

Hi, I have an application where the customer wants the alarms (Lon alarms in particular) disabled. Whenever they do a fire alarm test the...

What type of floor is this, how to care for it?

The kitchen in our house looks to be about 1950's vintage (O'Keefe & Merrit stove etc.). I don't understand what material the floor is made of and how to best care for it. When we bought it in 2006 it looked amazingly smooth/shiny and blemish free. We've been using mop and glo on it and its held up ok, but has become noticeably dull and scuffy. If a puddle of water is ever left on the floor it seems to seep in and dry to a hazy white spot which eventually goes away on its own (wax?). Is this this vinyl or linoleum (I've never had either)? When we first moved in it seemd to have a finish or patina that made it very resistant moist bits of food drying/crusting onto the floor. However now it is to the point where the whole floor feels 'rough' to a bare foot, and small piece of chopped vegetable that is accidentally un-swept and mooshed into the floor will dry to an annoying rough bump that is nearly cement like to get rid of. Do you have an idea of what this floor is made of and how we should really be caring for it? As 'ugly' as it is- I actually have grown to love the pattern so I'd like to figure out a way to make it last:)

Will the AK900 fit on a Imperial Manifold?

Was wondering fellas if the Ak900 will fit on either the 6,7 or 800 series manifold from Imperial? Didnt know if anyone knew off hand. Thanks.

Warped plywood roof sheathing - what next?

Hi folks - newbie here.....maybe a bit of an expensive fix on my hands here - the facts: - house is in Northern Illinois, approx 15 years old - we bought it 18 months ago - extensive mold discovered in attic during home inspection....mold cause assumed to be bathroom exhaust fan with exhaust duct outlet simply lying on top of soffit vent in the attic - clearly some exhaust air was going into the attic and not properly venting to the outside....supposedly that type of set-up met code - how the code allows that is beyond me - but that's a separate subject! - mold was remediated - all sheathing/rafters now covered in a white coating and the mold has not returned (so far, so good) Fast-forward 18 months..... - roofer recently at my house giving me an estimate to replace a dozen or so blown-off shingles - suspect high-nailing to be the cause, again, a separate subject - nail gun was the worst thing ever invented when it comes to proper shingle installation - arghhhh!!!!! Roofer guy asked if he could have a look in my attic, where we found a few interesting things: - rust on roofing nails (wasn't there after mold remediation 18 months ago)

Ductboard Cutting Machine-VERY NICE

Practically Brand New Fiber Glass Duct Fabrication Machine For Sale. This has been used only five sheets since it was made from the factory. It comes...

1959 old house backyard lighting switch question.

Hello, and thanks if you know the answer. I have an old house and it has flood lights in the backyard that light up the lawn, which is nice. It seems to be on the same circuit as a side door light which i put a motion security light in it's place. Inside the house where the switches are, there are two dual pole switches (standard). It looks like there are two strands of nomex? that go into the switch box. on the left is one set that has red, blk, white wires. The wire set coming in on the right is Blk, and white only. The left i assumed were hot from the breaker and the right going to the light fixtures. When both light switches are off, left black is hot, left red is hot, left white is pigtailed to the right white wire. Right black i assume goes to the light fixture. The red hot from left switch is hooked up to the lower pole on right switch. The wires are hooked up like this picture. When right switch is on, left off, both the door security light and backyard lights function. When right is on, left is on, both the security light and backyard floods are on. When right is off, left is on, nothings on. And of course when both are off, lights are off. Attachment 39034 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/lighting-light-fixtures-ceiling-exhaust-fans/39034-1959-old-house-backyard-lighting-switch-question-switch.jpg) oh i would like one switch to control the security light and the other to control the backyard light as i don't want the floods to be on constantly, but not sure what wires are what. The left again seems to be power from the breaker, red is hot, blk is hot till the switch is on, then both red/blk seem to have low power as it's not detected on my no contact pwr detector. When the right switch is on, all 4 wires are powered. I have no clue, works fine with just the right switch on but it powers both floods and security light for side door. Any ideas? thanks.

1980 TORO 38150-826 Need Help Chain Driven by Gear Range Disc Keeps Jumping Off

I have a 1980 Toro 38150-826. When I engage the traction drive into 1st,2nd gear the chain jumps off from the sprocket?!? The chain itself feels like there is plenty of tension, but it jumps off every time. Has any one seen this before? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Williamson Boiler New Install

I'm in the market for a new boiler and the contractor who came out recommends a Williamson boiler. I'm not familiar with the brand but Weil McLain...

"Old School" HVAC system

We may have to replace our one year old HVAC system. (Long story.) We have a VERY small house--just shy of 900 square feet. The system we had...

Low compression

I've checked and adjusted my valves and well as hone the cylinder and installed new rings but still can only get 50 lbs psi compression. I also checked for valve leakage and don't have any. Is there anything thing else I can do to improve my compression?

large leaky hole in concrete stairwell from splitlevel to sub_basement.

Howdy guys, I think I have a real odd one here! my house was a regular 70's split level, which was added too with an ground floor extension with a full basement. there has been water leaking out from beneath the stairs connecting the sub basement to the split level basement for as long as we've been in the house. The previous owners carved a channel in the concrete and and that directs the the water into a sump pump. Now because of higher than should be radon levels and because I thought it might be a good idea to actually figure out what was leaking I cut a hole in the stairs and took a look at our leak. What I found was a two foot wide by two and a half foot high hole where concrete should be but isn't. The concrete just seems to have melted away or was never there at all and the exposed bedrock underthe split level basement is right there to be poked out and leak water out of. Now my question is can I just construct a form and fill that in with some kind of concrete and adhesive? this is a really weird situation its not like I can dig out from under my splitlevel basement to put a waterproof barrier on the exterior side of this concrete stairwell it's literally under my house! Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Three tower rotation with failure

Good evening everyone, Its been a while since I've last posted, been learning quite a bit with the new company (although evidently not enough)...

Honda HR215 Masters Self-Propelled Speed

Does anyone know how to adjust the travel speed of the Honda HR215 Masters mower? When I have it in the fastest position the self-propelled speed is just not quite fast enough. It is a slow walk. It used to be faster so I think their must be a way to adjust the speed. Thanks for any help on this... Rob

Contest! "Wayne's Brain Challenge"

As many of you know, I've been developing an air conditioning diagnostic application called Wayne's Brain- A/C Analyzer...

To grout flagstone patio

About 7 years ago I laid a flagstone patio in my backyard. I compacted the ground, laid a layer of about 3 inches of sand, then laid my stone. Between the stone I spread some red crushed gravel that was supposed to hold the stones in place. For the first year or so it looked great. But the soil is clay and any sand or gravel spread out on it disappears into the soil after about 18 months. For the first two years I spread more gravel each spring as the ground between the stones seemed to shrink away - the stones seem to set about a half inch above the ground. For 3 years we tried planting moss between the stones but that never took hold. I am wondering if grouting the areas between the stones would not hold them better in place and give a more level and even appearance. Any disadvanted to grouting at this late date? Any alternatives? Thank you.

2 breakers in same box or split outlet?

I'm installing a new washer and dryer and I'd like dedicated circuits for each. If I'm using a tie down bar, can I put outlets from two different breakers in the same box? One more. Same as above, and can I put them on a split receptacle (lower powered by one circuit, upper by another)? Thanks

Whole House Fan: Green Upgrade, Energy Savings vs. A/C

Hey guys, I installed a Whole House Fan in my home. I recently posted a youtube video on my system to show how it works. A Whole House Fan can be used as an A/C alternative. It blows the existing air into the attic and draws cooler fresh air through a window into your home. My Whole House Fans run on a fraction of electricity compared to my A/C. I have a price comparison chart in the video... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CpUxEiem7U8&list=PLmhpyyF-vdr8pfk1wD0NgEIvqETJ5sAlv thanks, Boogi

Need help finding reputable AC service / installer in Miami?

My air conditioner recently stopped blowing cold air. I called the AC company I generally use (they installed the system 12 years ago - its a Carrier...

3-bulb fixture eats bulbs in two sockets

Hi, everyone; I have a 3-light fixture on the ceiling in my kitchen, and it seems that two of the bulbs seem to burn out far faster than the third. I originally had a 3-light track light that did this, both with 60W incandescents and with 13W CFLs. When we renovated last summer, we replaced the fixture with a new 3-light fixture using 50W G10 Capsylite bulbs, and it has done the same thing. One bulb is still going strong, but the one at the other end burned out after about three months, and the one in the middle after about another three months. The fixture is usually on for 3 to 5 hours a night, most nights. I've had the usual nebulous "wiring problems" answer from a couple of alleged professionals, but I would expect an issue with the house supply to affect the whole fixture equally, not cause the bulbs to burn out sequentially. There is only an unfinished attic above, and no doors within about fifteen feet to cause vibration issues from being slammed. Any ideas?

Heat pump outside unit not working

Hello. For about a year, my street light would go dark and come back on whenever the heat pump came on. 2 days ago, I noticed when the heat pump came...

Help Installing Light, Wired for a Fan, With Pictures

Hi, I am installing a light fixture to a ceiling box. I believe it is set up for a fan. It looks like this. Attachment 39005 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/lighting-light-fixtures-ceiling-exhaust-fans/39005-help-installing-light-wired-fan-pictures-20140928_124642.jpg) I tried to connections: 1. I attached the red from the ceiling to the black on the light and the white from the ceiling to the white on the light. I capped the black. This is how it is in the picture above. The Fixture does not light when I hit the switch.

Living in Fear of Government

It's all fun and games until your neighbor decides that she is the boss of the fun and games ...

Poulan 2150 LE Chainsaw

I have a Poulan chainsaw that is extremely hard to start and won't run when hot. It also 'looses' fuel but is not leaking externally. When hot I have noticed fuel 'percolating' into the carb from the tank hoses. Ever heard of this? Can the case be cracked or a gasket leaking? Can fuel leak from the carb to the crankcase?

Steam question, how can you tell if your A/H heating coil is at 100% performance?

I am fairly new to steam heating systems and was wondering how can you tell if your steam coil in a air handler is working properly and running at...

Any suggestions on unclogging a bathroom sink drain?

I have tried plunging, running a hand operated snake and a drain bladder blaster but nothing helps. All the other drains in the bathroom work. Could it be possible that the snake might be going up the vent instead of the drain? Any tips I could try thanks.

New Mini split inverter install

Hi, I installed a new mini split unit of 12,000 btu on my room. It replaced a window unit of 10,000 btu. I like the room very chilli at night,...

Loud banging after flush

We've been getting a loud pipe banging noise after flushing the toilet, in fact you can even feel the vibration in the floors. Kind of scary. But get this - it only happens when flushing poop. And only to that one toilet it seems. Flushing just liquid waste or toilet paper doesn't seem to cause any noise. Is this a problem? How might I go about fixing it? More fiber in diet? :eek:

Ceiling fan and a switched outlet.

I have searched the forums but can't seem to find the same wiring situation as I have. The ceiling fan wiring used to be surface mounted and plugged into a switched outlet. I ran a 14/2 wire through the ceiling and then into the back of a new plug. Everything works fine except for the fact that if I shut the light off then the fan goes off as well as the wall switch.... hmmmm never thought of that. One other issue is that the bathroom wall plug no longer works. What I would like to accomplish would be to have the bathroom plug working and to be able to keep the plug that the fan is connected to always hot. In addition be able to turn the light off while keeping the fan on. Going into the switched outlet at the top there are three wires a white, red and black. plus the new 14/2 cable that I ran. The original wiring has the white going to one side of the plug the red to the other and the black is pigtailed to another black that goes out the bottom of the box, On the bottom of the outlet there is a white wire connected and that wire goes goes out the same place that the pigtailed black wire goes (the bathroom plug?) The bottom back of the plug (the end with only a white wire) is where I stuck the fan wire into. Any help would be appreciated.

Ceiling fan and a switched outlet.

I have searched the forums but can't seem to find the same wiring situation as I have. The ceiling fan wiring used to be surface mounted and plugged into a switched outlet. I ran a 14/2 wire through the ceiling and then into the back of a new plug. Everything works fine except for the fact that if I shut the light off then the fan goes off as well as the wall switch.... hmmmm never thought of that. One other issue is that the bathroom wall plug no longer works. What I would like to accomplish would be to have the bathroom plug working and to be able to keep the plug that the fan is connected to always hot. In addition be able to turn the light off while keeping the fan on. Going into the switched outlet at the top there are three wires a white, red and black. plus the new 14/2 cable that I ran. The original wiring has the white going to one side of the plug the red to the other and the black is pigtailed to another black that goes out the bottom of the box, On the bottom of the outlet there is a white wire connected and that wire goes goes out the same place that the pigtailed black wire goes (the bathroom plug?) The bottom back of the plug (the end with only a white wire) is where I stuck the fan wire into. Any help would be appreciated.

Migraines and ear fullness after installing high efficiency system

Hi all, I am starting a new thread for this, because for some reason, I was unable to post a reply to a similar thread about this topic. Ever...

Migraines and ear fullness after installing high efficiency system

Hi all, I am starting a new thread for this, because for some reason, I was unable to post a reply to a similar thread about this topic. Ever...

how to make money #2

Starting a few days ago when I click on an article at a local newspaper website I got a message saying I've exceeded my allotment of free viewing and must subscribe if I want to read more than the 1st paragraph of any article. Curiosity got the better of me so I clicked to find out how much that would cost. Apparently you can subscribe online for free IF you subscribe to the printed addition at $15 per month or you can pay $17 per month for online only. I know printed newspapers are a dying breed but it looks like they want us to pay for the funeral :rolleyes: Fortunately there are news websites in the other nearby towns that don't have an online charge :cool:

help with squeaky steel joists

I have a house built in the 1970s that has steel joists on the main floor, with 3/4" T&G plywood subfloor. The ply was screwed to the joists with self-tapping metal screws, but also nailed (possibly a later "fix" for squeaks?). The floor squeaks and is not solid - you can see it move when walked on. I have taken up the screws on a sheet of ply (many of them just spun freely) and removed the nails that weren't sunk below the surface. I replace them with a thicker screw (not self-tapping). I still have squeaks. My neighbor said that he just put down a second layer of 3/4 ply, and that got rid of almost all squeaks. Is this my best option? Glen

Trying to get to the 1890's wood floor under 2" of subfloor+

I have been trying to remodel my late grandparents 100 yr+ farmhouse for the last month. By myself. It's a huge undertaking to say the least. Long story short, I've discovered the kitchen has a beautiful --and by the looks so far, pristine wood floor way down deep. I haven't a clue what species of wood it is. Walnut maybe, but not hard enough. Anyway, as I was digging into the lumpy linoleum that is currently the top layer, I found a 5/8" plywood subfloor stapled to the floor beneath, which I thought was the wood floor. The more I went into the room (foot by foot) I found another layer of bright blue vinyl tile, tarred (black sticky gummy crap) down to another 5/8" sheet of plywood, nailed with varying sized nails to the desired wood floor, and in some places, likely 50-70 years ago someone attempted to shim low spots with more tar and plywood veneer. Further still, I found another layer of a weird floral papery vinyl type flooring just laying there. The desired wood floor was protected, sanded, and waiting to be uncovered. Of the four people "supposed" to be helping me, I am the only one doing anything and the only one wanting to get down to original. It took me _several_ hours to get 30 inches into the kitchen. Each layer was nailed or stapled like a hundred times in each square foot. How can I get through and remove each layer without damaging the beautiful floor 2 inches down and not take weeks to get it up? I am extremely handy for being a chick, but not experienced in subfloor removal. or at least not one of this depth, adhesion, and importance. What handy tools should I acquire? I used a circular saw to get through the 1st two layers of plywood once it became 2 full layers. That was slow and tedious. I had to use a chisel and multi tool to get up the veneer and tar at the door way. It was a strange sandwich of numerous materials likely found around the farm. Then pry and pound down, remove nails, repeat, pry, pound, pull. There has to be something faster or at least more productive. Please some advice! The photo attached is the same floor material I found in the dining room and living room under carpet. It also was tarred and sanded before being covered up, but not sanded well. The kitchen actually looks to be in better shape.

New light fixture will not turn off

Hello I recently bought a new light fixture for the kitchen and after installation the fixture will not turn off. The electrical box has a grounding wire, a white wire, a black wire and a red wire. The fixture has a grounding wire, white wires and black wires When taking down the old fixture I noticed that the black and red wires were connected so when putting up the new fixture I followed the same setup, however the light will not off once power is restored. When this happened I took it down and put the old one back up however now the old one will not turn off as well so Im completely stumped as to what has happened.

Word2013 Printing Problem

I was getting along with Word2013 until time came to print a document and then I hit a wall. The problem? It was asking me to sign into OneNote before I can do any printing (actually it was saying for the first time I have to sign into OneNote) I don’t want to sign to OneNote because I have no use for it. Is there anyway to go around this obstacle?

Honeywell Redesigned Prestige IAQ with Trane Communicating System

I'm really interested in upgrading my OEM Trane XL800 Communicating Thermostat with the new Honeywell Redesigned Prestige IAQ Thermostat. My Trane...

Low fan / Recirc fan runs continously

Have a Carrier furnace with electric heat and a heat pump. Thermostat is set on auto fan and auto system and low fan continuously runs. Turned stat to off and tried removing the stat and the low fan still runs. Have to turn off power at breaker to stop low fan. Any ideas

Blower Speed's Effects on Delta-T and Humidity

Hi, Our blower and fan were just replaced by an HVAC guy. The old one had a bit of mold on it so a remediation place suggested the total...

Lights dimming/flickering with any electrical activity

I live in an old house, have lived here for 20 years, and recently (within the past couple years), I've been noticing a lot of flickering in the lights when electrical activity occurs throughout the house. Originally, I thought it was a circuit problem, as the house was built in 1946 and had an inadequate amount of circuits: one circuit for three appliances (toaster oven and dishwasher on at the same time for example, would trip the breaker). This was recently remedied, with the washer/dryer put on one circuit, dishwasher on another, microwave on another, etc. But the flickering problem still occurs with all the lights in the house and now, it seems to be worse than ever. I used to only notice it when the washer was running: incandescent lights especially would react to it, pulsing and flickering with the action of the washer's agitator. But now, for example, if I have my desk light on and someone else turns the light on in the bathroom, my desk lamp will noticeably dim. It gets to the point where the flickering and dimming of my desk lamps alerts me to what other people are doing in the house. I can tell when the toaster's done for example, because my light will brighten right up! Surely this can't be normal. The wiring has passed inspections in the past, but the last one was probably over a decade ago. What could be the problem?

Should air handlers be TOTALLY sealed?

We've had our new heat pump and air handler (both by Carrier) for about a week. When they were installed, I noticed that air blew out the top of the...

Kenmore 11023812100 not spinning

Hi. When I look under the machine at the motor it is spinning. The shaft goes into what looks like a transfer case and the shaft coming up out of this and into the tub is spinning. but inside the tub it does not spin. I removed the agitator and the thing under it and saw a metal shaft there that periodically moves a millimeter and stops. Something under it, what makes it move is busted I guess. I also tried to get that piece off but whatever that metal thing holding that shaft in place won't budge ... seems to need a special tool to turn because it won't move. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

New field need help!

Ive just started a new job at a company where my responsibilities will include running the residential calls (90 contracts) and filling in my time...

pump for fountain / waterfall missing part

Hi there! I am trying to get my little fountain running properly and I came across this curiosity. It appears that there is some sort of adjustment piece that is supposed to go in the empty hole. I'd like to get a new one but I have no clue what such a thing might be called. Does this look familiar to anyone? Thank you!Attachment 38971 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/ponds-fountains-water-gardens/38971-pump-fountain-waterfall-missing-part-img_1541.jpg)

rotting roof and exterior wall

I am in the process of fixing a leaking roof. roof deck is rotted pine boards, 2x6 framing. replacing with plywood. my problem is, winter is coming and I just discovered some of the exterior wall is rotted. not sure how bad it is, i can only see it from the top of the wall, where i took off the decking. the whole roof is 40' long, rotted wall section is about 8' long. I can see some of the 2x6's are rotted at the end, over the soffit. and the top of the wall, the part the roof rafters sit on, is rotted. I may have to replace the entire exterior wall, down to the footing. here is the problem. if i found this out in the spring, i would have just fixed the wall first, then the roof. but now, i am out of time. can i replace the roof and rotted rafters and leave the wall until spring? in other words, put a new roof on a rotted wall? i can put 2x6's inside from floor to rafter to support the roof. then , in the spring, i would leave the temporary roof supports in and demolish the wall. or, is there a better way?

Breaker panel looks legit

A friend ran into this one

Reversing the direction of an AC capacitor 1/2 HP Emerson circa1962 motor

I spent hours building a stand for a rock lapidary unit, and more hours hooking up the electrical. I was so pleased with myself until I turned it on. Everything worked great but the motor turns in the wrong direction. The motor information plate is almost completely worn off. I can see that it is a type KS. Other numbers on it are a 60, a "50 Cont.", a large 13V is stamped on and 1725 which may be speed? I don't know how to describe the terminal connections. There are 4 nuts with the black wire from the plug going to the lower left connection. The white wire goes up inside to a circular connection that has another white wire. (Maybe a switch for the capacitor) All the wires inside the motor between the terminals are white. Describing how they are connected and what they do is beyond me so I took pictures. I'm 68 and an accomplished DIYer but I've never worked with electrical motors. Although I've read some of the other forums I am not familiar with the motor world terminologies. Thank you for your time and for your suggestions.Attachment 38959 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/electrical-ac-dc/38959-reversing-direction-ac-capacitor-1-2-hp-emerson-circa1962-motor-2015-04-15-20.26.17.jpg)

Carrier IVU6

Have set a FCU to fan unoccupied and unable to change the cycle time or the run time. looks like there is a default of 1 hour between cycles and a 1...

2002 Chevy Venture overheating

Hi, I was overheating, losing coolant but no leak. Mechanic said it was the intake gasket, I had it changed. He showed me the old one and it was cracked. It was still overheating, took it back and he said he changed some kind of hose. Got it back today and $500 later and the heat gauge went all the way over to hot and the overheat lights came on, check coolant etc. then it went back to normal for a few miles and again by the time I got home the gauge went all the way over to the right. I'm thinking thermostat problem. Am I correct? Any suggestions? I don't really want to take it back to him, he had it for a week for the intake gasket and another week for whatever hose he replaced.

old YORK DCUC models just cant seem to deem bad to save my life.

Hey all i was just thinking back to the last few weeks doing heat start ups here in michigan. anyhow i have been running in to alot of old york units...

Dirty filter contest?

Temporary filter 12x12 circa 2005 :eek2:Attachment 515691 (http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=515691) HO said nobody ever asked to...

Are K style end caps universal?

I bought 5" K gutter at Lowes ($1.67 ea!!). Will the K style 5" end caps I buy at Guttersupply.com fit the Lowes gutters? Big price difference.

What a Radiant Control Coating can do in an attic

Using a Radiant Control Coating in an attic, sprayed directly onto the roiof underdecking will keep the attic cooler in the hot months and warmer ibn...

Zone starts circulator but doesn't fire boiler - again

Hi everyone. I've read almost all the posts on here trying to determine a fix for my issue but just can't find a solution and going insane so i signed up for an account to post my issue. I have a 4-zone house (downstairs is radiant, upstairs is baseboard) and 2 circulating pumps one for upstairs and the other is for downstairs. I would like to find the person who wired it up and yell at them for a bit for the frustration. So what happens is when i call for heat from the upstairs zones, the boiler fires and the pumps come on. A little while later, the pipes get hot and everything is good. On the other hand, when the downstairs calls for heat, only the pumps come on without any heat - so pretty much in order to heat the house, i have to turn the upstairs on (not very efficient). There are too many things happening that I am trying to determine where the issue is. I want to simplify it as much as possible: Zone 1 (upstairs):

Recommend me a meter.

I have all I really need for routine service with my old trusty amprobe and have a cap tester. I just want something for testing flame sensors....

Radiant Floor Install

Hello all, I am in the process of getting my hot water boiler replaced and asked for quotes on getting radiant floor (PEX) installed under my kitchen floor. Install would be in the crawl, between the rafters. Square footage for the coverage is about 120 sq ft. How much would you think it would cost to get the radiant flooring installed? The two contractors I am talking to are quoting $1,000 to do it and I think that is really high...thoughts?

Cellular module

The installer of my system locked out my panel, and refused to give me the installer code. The rep of the service provider I planned to use said that I could install a cellular module to bypass the installer code. Just wanted to confirm this with the folks here to see if that's a good way to proceed. Here are my questions: 1. Does this sound like a good idea to you? 2. I am on a pay-as-you-go cellular plan. Would that work with cellular monitoring? 3. Will I be able to program my system from the keypads? What features provided by the panel would be lost by switching to this cellular module? Thanks.

Locked out on high head pressure??

On a mall working on a neighboring unit and had to stand back and simply marvel on the beauty of this recent install...:whistle: Anyone who knows...

Boiler with 2 zones and 2 iar handlers

Good Morning. Let me start off by saying I might use the wrong terminology here as I am new to HVAC, but am fairly mechanical. I just replaced a ductless system in my home with 2 separate ducted systems. One for upstairs, one for downstairs. I was able to wire up the air conditioning no problem and it worked great all year, now I am getting ready to hook up the heat and I have a few questions. With the old ductless system, my boiler received the signal from the thermostats, and turned on the circulators, and sent the hot water to small Honeywell Zone valves that opened and sent that water to the unit that was calling for it. Now that I am changed over to forced air, Im assuming I need a new set of controls for this. I have done some research on zoning and the controls needed for that, and see that I can get a Taco boiler control that will handle 3 zones. That seems pretty straight forward, my question is, what tells the air handler to come on? Do I need another control for the air handler (Hydro Air Control)? Or is there something is the regular boiler control or zone valve that will tell the air handler to come on? Thanks in advance for your help. Brian

New service vehicle Toyota Scion xb

I know it needs work in some areas. I've been using it for several months. Have everything to do residential service, it keeps me organized. I do...

Holder Aide Accidentally Calls Issa Staff for Help Spinning IRS Scandal

A senior communications aide to Attorney General Eric Holder seemingly called House oversight committee chairman Darrell Issa's staff by accident and...

Preparing subfloor for engineered wood

Hi - I would like to understand what needs to be done in order to prepare the subfloor I have in my apartment for a nice engineered wood flooring. This subfloor is quite old, not level, has traces of glue on it, and I'm struggling to fully understand what I need to so. I attached a picture here which might help understand what I'm talking about. Ideally I want to put something on it that will protect the new floor and protect me from noise as well, and I want to correct the floor leveling so it's flat. If I just put plywood I'm worried it won't help with noise reduction. Also consider the variations in height of the subfloor, installing plywood is going to be a mess. Thank you in advance for your help.

Don't use boat motor mix?

While fiddling around with a garage-sale chainsaw I downloaded and read the old manual. In it I was surprised to read the caution NOT to use BIA marine oil/gas mix in the saw because it doesn't have the necessary additives for an air-cooled engine. I've never seen a warning like this and have been running my chainsaws, trimmers and outboards off the same 40:1 mix of synthetic marine oil/gas for years. Can this cause damage. .. or is this an obsolete warning that's not true for modern marine oils?

Need help sizing AC unit for 3 level Townhome

I am planning on replacing a 2.5T/60,000BTU AC/Furnace System in my 3-level townhome in northern virginia. _House Details:_ Northern Virginia...

Salt Bridge

I know there are a lot of questions about this issue, but I feel like mine is a little unique. I haven't tested the hardness of the water lately but about 2 months ago I had very hard water caused by a salt bridge. I broke it up down to somewhere between the 1 & 2 lines, then I couldn't reach any further so I figured it would be okay (dumb assumption, I guess). Now it seems like the water is hard again, and I just checked & the salt bridge had built back up again. I just broke it down to between the 1 & 2 lines again but I feel like I need to take it all the way down or else the situation will just keep repeating (if it's even enough in the first place). What is my best option - pour some water in & try to soften the salt? Keep trying to break it up? How the heck do I reach that far down without tipping the softener? How can I best make sure this doesn't happen again? Thanks for any advice anyone can offer. Andy

Installing soundboard

I'm replacing a ceiling with some pine wood panels. I also want to soundproof it a little bit as the ceiling is comletely open to the floorboards above. The room above has painted floorboards, no other floor. The joists are also not level so I need to put in some strapping. Where in the layering should the soundboard go? If I put joists-->soundboard-->strapping->panels then there are 2 air gaps. If I put jpoists-->strapping-->soundboard-->panes then there is only 1 air gap.

Change in belt size

Now the question is it the longer the belt the slower the the blower wheel will turn in relation ship to the drive motors rpms. I'm picturing in my...

Sistering Floor Joist!

I have a approx. 12-15' portion of 2x10 that has a crack in it. I do not see any noticeable difference in the floor above so I am not certain I even need to tend to this? If I do, judging by the picture, is it as easy as sistering a new 2x10 next to the cracked joist and joining them with carriage bolts? Do you feel I need to jack up this portion? I would appreciate any advice here? Thank you.

Is bypass damper required in the duct when RTU is equipped with VFD Fan Motor?

I am the Building Operator of two commercial buildings, in which the owner have just upgraded some old RTUs with new RTUs equipped with VFD Fan...

Yorks , how do u know age of unit

Is it hidden in the serial ?

purging toilet and dish wash sink purging?

hi what are the best material to purge toilet and sink

What a weird day

Only had 4 calls today, 3 of them were frozen solid. All 3 were rheem units also.Attachment 515481...

PACKAGED UNITS

DO ALL NEW PACKAGED UNITS HAVE THE RETURN AND SUPPLY SIDES REVERSED?

This Is Why We Use GFCI's

Enough said? Attachment 38928 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/general-chats-discussions/38928-why-we-use-gfcis-84302752.jpg) Attachment 38929 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/general-chats-discussions/38929-why-we-use-gfcis-84302745.jpg) ...............

Looking to install Bamboo!

Hello again, First, I'm a total novice when it comes to flooring so I have no objections to asking for help. :) I'm currently removing all the old flooring on the main floor, carpet and vinyl. When finished, my plan was to have the local shop install a Pergo wood with a laminate in the kitchen and baths. However, in my other thread on removing that stuff it was suggested I look into bamboo. I'm liking what I have seen so far but I would certainly listen to any advice. What's the best backing? Is there a preferred seller or brand or type? What's the best way to cut the pieces to fit? Has anyone made patterns from the boards?

Kohler Command 25 won't start

My Kohler 25 command twin engine won't start, just clicks. I know the battery is good so I suspect the solenoid or the starter. Is there a way to test these individually? The engine is a CV725S Spec # 69539 Serial # 3104502951 Thanks! TexasFire

BOOTS ON THE GROUND...BOOTS ON THE GROUND...

anybody else tired of hearing couch potato soldiers and wimpy ,soft jelly bellied t.v. commentators use this term as they describe our constant state...

What is your favorite tool

THIS!!!!!!!!! this is my favorite tool in my truck. 300lb loading capacity. Ive used this for everything including getting a 250lb semi hermetic...

How to fix gap under front door? Threshold?

My front door has a 1/2" gap underneath it when closed, so it is quite drafty. I am not sure how to fix it. I put a door sweep on the bottom, but I ran into an issue. Forgive my lack of terminology, but I've tried to illustrate the problem in the photos. The green arrows show the area that the door sits over when closed. The red arrows show a "threshold" that is inside of that area. This threshold is about 1/2" higher than the green area. This limits how low I can put the sweep on the door. Right now, the sweep is as low as it can go and still close. However, you can see that when the door is closed, there is a gap underneath as the sweep isn't low enough to touch the green area. You can even clearly see the light coming through What are my options? Should I get one of those bean-filled strips and somehow attach it to the door? Or do I need to remove the red arrow part and replace it with something shorter? (This part seems to match the laminate flooring, so I am guessing a new shorter part wouldn't match, but oh well). I'd like to get this sealed up quickly as winter will be hitting before long in teh Northeast US. Thanks for any advice!

Self Leveling Asphalt sealant

I need to fill and seal between my asphalt driveway and concrete garage floor. Over the years a gap of various widths as developed between them. In the winter the wet ground under the garage freezes and lifts a portion of the garage floor. Is there a self leveling asphalt sealant that I can buy to fill the gap. The gap can be has wide as 3" and in some places 2" deep

Hole saw

What does everyone use for cutting/boring 3-5/8" holes through sill plates? Around here it is not uncommon to have 12" railroad ties and spending...

Charging a unit in the rain

Ok, so I'm still a new tech so bear with me. I have a question about charging a basic straight-cool split r-22 unit in the rain. Now, of course I...

Wiring Problem for Honeywell RTH9580WF1005 Smart Thermostat

I am looking to upgrade my current thermostat to this newer Honeywell Smart Thermostat. My problem is that I currently do not have a C wire at the thermostat unit. In addition, once i open the control panel at the furnace unit, i see that there is no Y wire connected to the Y terminal (But there is a Y wire at the terminal in the wall unit). Is it possible to still upgrade to the new thermostat or do i have to rewire the entire system? Its very weird how the wiring does not match from the poles at the wall unit to the furnace. i will include pictures for further explanation. any help will be appreciated. Attachment 38918 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/thermostatic-controls/38918-wiring-problem-honeywell-rth9580wf1005-smart-thermostat-get-attachment-1-.jpg) Attachment 38921 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/thermostatic-controls/38921-wiring-problem-honeywell-rth9580wf1005-smart-thermostat-get-attachment-2-.jpg) Attachment 38920 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/thermostatic-controls/38920-wiring-problem-honeywell-rth9580wf1005-smart-thermostat-get-attachment.jpg)

AK900's

Just ordered one for rooftop work. Retiring my Sman3 to the Kitchen work...

Do ceiling fan remotes fail?

I have a pair of Hampton Bay ceiling fan remotes with thermostats and fan speed and light adjustment. One recently stopped operating. Batteries are fresh. The unit that has the antenna for the remote is still sending current to the fan and the lights so the fan and lights can operate with their respective switches. The remote is probably 13 or 14 years old at this point.

Can I use standard 18/2 SPT-2 wire with this Ceramic (type b bulb) socket?

Hi everyone! The other day I picked up a fixture from the local ReStore. It's a 60 watt (takes a type b bulb,) fixture originally meant to be attached to a ceiling box. I'd like to convert it into a table lamp. I've rewired and built many lamps and swag lights, but never one with this kind of socket, and I've never converted a fixture to a plug-in lamp, so I have some questions about grounding and cord types. Photos of the fixture/socket/wiring: Attachment 38911 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/lighting-light-fixtures-ceiling-exhaust-fans/38911-can-i-use-standard-18-2-spt-2-wire-ceramic-type-b-bulb-socket-photo-sep-26-4-04-21-pm.jpg) Attachment 38912 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/lighting-light-fixtures-ceiling-exhaust-fans/38912-can-i-use-standard-18-2-spt-2-wire-ceramic-type-b-bulb-socket-photo-sep-26-4-04-41-pm.jpg) My questions are:

3yo Goodman heat pump, will only use AUX heat

I have a 3yo goodman DSZC18 unit with the comfortnet CKT01 thermostat. On the thermostat it is scrolling "Check Heat Pump" and there is also a...

Cloth Covered Two-Wire and NM w/Ground in Same Junction Box

I'm in the middle of a remodel. A wall was removed and the wires through the wall were rerouted through the attic by the contractor. The old, cloth covered two-wire cable was used where ever possible. There is a short stint between two junction boxes where new 14/2 Romex was used. The ground wire in the Romex has nothing to connect to on either end. The inspector said the ground wire must be connected to any other ground and suggested running cable to another branch circuit solely for grounding. Does this sound right? Can someone point me to the NEC requirement for this? Also, I'm very wary of having cable run from on branch circuit to another even if it's only for ground. I'm in San Jose, CA: CEC 2013 (NEC 2011) Thanks!

?

FYI, after install a new ac unit, Low side is going down to -10 like pumping Down. Goodman 1.5 tone, we watch the delivery man hammer the new unit...

Rheem - Model #: RRGG-05N31JKR - Furnace Problem

Hello, Following behavior occurs when the furnace turns on: The blower starts immediately when in HEAT position. (No time to make the fire process first before blower starts). I am not sure if it depends on the unit and is it normal that the blower starts immediately in Heat position? Warm air is coming out for approx. 5 minutes, then I can hear that the compressor??? (also the big fan on the top of the unit) starts running (as when it were in A/C mode), so suddenly the warm air turns to room temperature air with no heat although the heater is still running and there is fire in the unit. You can feel the heat through the inducer motor coming out on top of the unit . I also recently replaced the blower relay and the FCC. See attached pics.

Rheem - Model #: RRGG-05N31JKR - Furnace Problem

Hello, Following behavior occurs when the furnace turns on: The blower starts immediately when in HEAT position. (No time to make the fire...

LonMaker Subsystems

I am programing a job with LonMaker in which the database has to be turned over to a independent commissioning agent. In one of the notes they state...

Whirlpool washer will not spin on its own

I have a Whirlpool washer that will complete the wash cycle, fill and drain in the rinse cycle, but will not spin in the rinse cycle unless it is manually started. Is this possible a clutch or transmission problem?

Garage/Driveway remodel

Hello, I just bought a home. It is older and on a hill. The garage was listed as a 2 car but after cleaning it out, it fit only one comfortably. Also our house is on a hill as is our driveway. Our Garage is very old and poorly built. Does anyone know roughly how much it would cost to take down the garage and dig up the current driveway so that our driveway is flat and the garage is lower and there is room for an addition to the house?

Need help identifying & replacing old Cutler Hammer 15 A 3 pole subpanel breaker

One of the breakers in my home subpanel that feeds 1/4 of the house is bad. I've searched high and low for a replacement. The subpanel gets two 110V feeds from the main panel. Each 110V wire attaches to the line side of the CH breaker. There are 3 internal 15 amp breakers that feed 3 circuits in the house. Please see attached photo. Info from the breaker is: Cutler Hammer 3 pole breaker Type MB 15 amp The left one has an "Issue No. M-62" label

ComfortStar

I've done hvac for 16 years. Installed a comfortstar mini-split for my in-laws. Works great on cooling, but is stuck in defrost mode in heating. ...

Frigidaire oven won't light

I have a Frigidaire oven (Model # FGFL66ASA, Serial # VF23004420) that won't light. Power & gas supply is good. Stove top burners light OK. The ignitor glows bright orange but that's all that happens. Is there a way to test the gas valve or a next step in the troubleshooting? Any input is appreciated! TexasFire

Meat Packing Plant

Small meat packing plant in rural area literally in a town with 10 houses. Open drive units serves the cutting room. Copeland semi does the freezer....

Need Advice

Hello All, I currently have an electric boiler, yes you read that right, feeding copper fin throughout my home. Home is about 1600 sq ft, lots of loss due to old windows that will eventually be replaced, talking 3 years down the road. So you can imagine, electric bills are very high. I am converting to gas and am getting all sorts of conflicting advice from contractors. Two contractors rated the house at ~83k. The other contractor did not perform a rating. Contractor #1: Go with high efficiency Elite FT80 (79MBH), Triangle Tube 40gal Indirect water heater w/ outdoor reset control. $$$$$ Contractor #2: He states to not go with high efficiency or indirect water or outdoor reset control, not worth it. He suggests Crown Aruba 4 AWR140 cast iron boiler (102MBH) with a separate conventional 50gal gas water heater. $$$

CCN to JACE Niagara exporting to BACnet/IP

I've got a CCN building that I'm trying to integrate and take to BACnet/IP. I'm not very familiar with CCN and the way they use schedules, so I'm...

CCN to JACE Niagara exporting to BACnet/IP

I've got a CCN building that I'm trying to integrate and take to BACnet/IP. I'm not very familiar with CCN and the way they use schedules, so I'm...

A coil drain pan water level

I noticed a water spot outside my air handler, and inside where the return air comes in the insulation was wet. I opened up the A coil area , water...

water pressure test result questons

I am installing a 16' section CI baseboard with a 90 degree turn on my first floor. It is in place and pipes go down to basement and ready to connect to the main line. I did water pressure test yesterday. I have purged all air out. The water pressure was 62psi and then I closed the water loop and separated it from water supply. I checked all joints and low points. No leakage was found. This morning the pressure is down to about 43psi. I checked all the connections and low points again. All are dry. I checked several times with my dry figures. I am wondering why the pressure goes down without air inside? Is this normal? Does this test pass or fail? Is this because there are still some air inside?

Snow blower advice

Looking to get a snow blower for this winter (supposed to be a bad one again?). We live in central Indiana so not talking tons of snow. Quick search on google shows we average eight 1", two 3" and one 5" snow days per year. The past couple years have been more than average; I know we had a couple 10+" snow day last year. Our concrete drive is 3 car wide down to one in a short sloping curve, but we also about >300' of sidewalk to keep clear. Looking for fairly small so it doesn't take up much space in garage. Something reliable, preferably Briggs engine as that is most of my other engines are. Thinking a 1-stage or small 2-stage; I don't want it to be under-powered and have to shovel. A fairly nice easy to move chute would probably be nice so I don't spray it all on my neighbor's nearby drive or onto the house/sidewalk. What brands and models are recommended for my situation?

Duct Sizing - how can you tell if a Manual D is done properly?

Hello all, I'm building a new home here in Ohio, and I'm running into some issues between the Manual D drawing for the house and what the HVAC...

Flipping deck boards?

I have a PT wood deck and the decking boards are really starting to show their age; they're about 15 years old. I have been toying with the idea of of flipping the boards over to get a little more life out of them. I have looked at the underside and they look pretty good. The boards are applied diagonally and I will have some issues to resolve. First, for the end miters to be correct, I have to flip the boards end for end. That means that the old screw holes will be left open because they won't line up with the joists any more. Second, it seems to me there almost has to be a stain on the bottom side of the boards where they met the joists that would now be exposed. Third, I will need to add additional new boards where there are now splices because the old boards are spiced; I'm not too worried about that because I did replace a board once and it only took a year to weather out and blend in. Any thoughts? Am I being an idiot to even consider this?

Sources for waterproofing materials & tools

some have asked privately where we buy our materials for waterproofing exterior walls & building bsmt french drains Zoeller pumps exclusively - this pump is the industry standard for all of us - m-53 - Zoeller M53 Mighty Might Sump Pump Brand New | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/321531582168?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D321531582168%26_rdc%3D1) another source is grainger & ferguson but you'll pay more - 1 1/2" pvc pump bushing, plastic check valve just about 6" above the bushing, 1/8" drain hole 1/2" above bushing to drain residual water from discharge pipe making pump startup easier, pump water up 10' then let it run downhill as it drains outside sumps - grainger or ferguson - we only use those w/sealable lids & 4 nuts/bolts for kiddie safety apron/vest stores - scrubbrushes, 6mil plastic, bagg'd conc, 19mm pond liner, soil filter fabric, 4" pvc drainage piping w/holes either sched 60 OR s & d - that's it for those places waffleboard/dimpleboard/miradrain - pro genl const supply house OR masonry supply store,,, same w/hlm5000

Multifunctional intelligent bathroom products - Trend bathroom era

Multifunctional intelligent bathroom products - Trend bathroom era From century classic exterior design advantages to functional design, European sanitary ware brand always at the forefront of the world's bathroom, the combination of product features and customer needs. In 2014 Shanghai International Expo, many European brands gather debut, the flagship of the one-toilet has been the first to achieve the App control, built-in intelligence purification system, set automatic flushing, automatic open and close, warm water, warm air drying other advantages in one, to achieve strong silent flush. Even the kitchen faucet design be modified, even TOTO, HHSN, ROCA also competing brands exhibited their advanced sanitary products, really captured people's attention, but also allow people to use the functions toiletries have a better understanding.

Snake Caught in Pipe

Howdy y'all. I have an interesting problem. I was snaking out a floor drain (main line) using a flat sewer rod or tape like this: Attachment 38890 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/plumbing-piping/38890-snake-caught-pipe-088712150503lg.jpg) It went in fine and successfully cleared the clog, but now I can't get the thing out. It's caught on a turn in the pipe about 6 feet in. I'm pretty sure that there's a lip or flange where two pipes come together and the ball thing on the end of the rod is getting stuck at that point, sorta like this: Attachment 38889 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/plumbing-piping/38889-snake-caught-pipe-stuck-snake.png) Red being the snake, blue the ball at the end of the snake, and black the pipes.

Lennox Install Issue: High Superheat, Low Suction Pressure..

Ok, we had a company install a new Lennox system last week and are having a small problem with it. The equipment is: XC25 5-ton compressor, SL280UH...

Lennox: Blower Modulating disabled in zone setup??

Setup is: Lennox XC25 variable compressor A/C w/ SL280UH variable blower furnace. Our installer gave us a 2-zone setup like our old equipment had....

Internet Explorer

Why does this site have a problem with IE? For example sometimes while trying to write a post the letters wont register, although they registered...

Fun For Your Cat

Finding Minnesota: The Feline Fun House « CBS Minnesota (http://minnesota.cbslocal.com/2014/09/07/finding-minnesota-the-feline-fun-house/)

Craftsman Table Saw Problem

I have a Craftsman table saw model 315.228110. The blade lowers the way it is supposed to, but raising the blade is an effort. You have to really bear down and use two hands to turn the crank to raise the blade. Any ideas to fix the problem?

gas valve issue

Had a routine maintenance call today on a brand new Lennox gas pack. 1st stage check. Wait wait wait. No second stage. Ok install did not set up...

Vacuum pump intake fitting

I have always used my 3/8 hose to pull vacuum, now I have another used Vac pump which has a 1/2 " intake fitting. Is this common from factory, or...

Old tree root holes under foundation footing

I've been clearing an area alongside the house that we use as a gardening work area, preparing to put in new ground covering. I discovered some sinking areas near the wall, and after some digging out found that they are old holes left by the roots of a long-gone tree (there are some small moldy fragments of wood but there are otherwise empty holes). There is a hairline crack in the stucco over the area of the holes, but the foundation looks undamaged. I've been under the house and found nothing wrong on the inside. How should I go about filling these? (I can poke a stick at least three feet down a couple of these). I have a quantity of rough gravel at hand, would it be adequate to pack it in with a gravel / soil mixture? That's my first thought anyway.

Genteq X13 Motor on Carrier AHU

Went to a call today where the x13 motor was running at a slow speed. This caused the unit to freeze up due to no airflow. I thawed out the unit and...

Yamaha 125 Breeze won't turn over

Hello all: My wife has a 125 Breeze that was running great. Turned it off for about an hour and when she went to start it had a problem. The battery is strong and the ignition is working but all that happens when it should turn over is a Whhrrrring sound. (sorry for the noise example) It sounds like the starter is not engaging. Any help as what to look at first would be appreciated.

Intermittent lighting on Victory Slant Fin Hot Water Heat...

I'm trying to help my parents get their heat working. I have troubleshot the electrical and everything is working as it should however the pilot will sometimes not light. The electronic ignition is zapping, and there is 24vac on the PV. I took a long wooden match and the pilot lit just fine. and the MV opened like a champ. Got heat. It would work properly 4 or 5 times in a row, then suddenly no lightum upum. Could the propane valve for pilot not be opening all the way? One other thing. How the heck does this thing know the pilot lit?

Lennox CBX32MV-036 airhandler voltage at "O' terminal question

Customer had someone install a heat pump a few years ago and wire the low voltage for AC only, they were using a coal stove for heat. Now they want...

Follow-Up Question -- Trane Quote

I posted the other day regarding quotes I'd received for Payne & Tempstar models, as I need to keep costs way down. My boss got the company he used...

Help - Corrosion on expansion tank

I recently noticed that there is some corrosion on the piece above the expansion tank. I don't know if it's called a float valve or pressure release or whatever. The top piece of this, which looked like it was a plastic screw at some point is broken off , so I can't unscrew it. It looks like this piece screws into the top of the expansion tank. I think I need to change it, but I don't know if I can just unscrew it and put a new one on, or if I first need to drain the pipes from the baseboard somehow. There is no shut off nearby, and I'm not sure how to drain the water. I attached some pictures if anyone could help. I think I have a few questions. It looks like the pipe in the last picture just goes down to the floor and is open. Maybe that's where I can let the water out? 1) How do I shut off the boiler? 2) How/do I need to drain the pipes? 3) How do I change the pressure release valve? 4) Do I need to do any maintenance on the expansion tank? 5) How do I fill the pipes back up and make sure there is no air in them?

40+year Building.

I currently have taken on board the above age building. It has a boiler for the heating of a Cental Plant. I have never serviced a boiler before &...

Waterproofing the wall around a crack

I wonder if this would work. As I mentioned in my other thread in this forum I suspect that I have a crack in one of my basement walls. This is just below an above the grade window on the same wall (for the layout see my other thread) While I am waiting for my USB borescope to arrive so I can assess the damage behind the wall of the finished basement I am evaluating my options to fix the problem on that wall. I don't want to dig the entire wall and to water proof is since it seem to be ok for the rest of it. (the problem comes from the wall that forms a corner with this one where the crack is) So I am thinking about digging all the way down to the footing but just around the crack and under the window. Next I will fix the crack using one of the recommended concrete or expoxy or whatever. After that I will apply whatever asphalt solution and membrane that is recommended and after that I am planning to backfill with the previously excavated soil. No draining at the base As someone pointed here by doing the above I am going to create a sort of gap there where the soil will be softer that the surrounding soil and the water could migrate toward this spot due to some lateral pressure (I forgot the exact term) In order to avoid this migration I am thinking of adding two plastic membranes positioned like in this picture (only closer to the exterior edge of the dig)

Fried

Looks like relay caught on fire to me.

HVAC work overseas?

I'm a light commercial and residential service tech with 7 years experience looking to work outside the US. I'm young, no kids or anything else tying...

Installing a second electric meter. Wiring and grounding questions.

I have a rental house in CA with a separate in-law house. I have a permit and I am going to install a separate meter/combo next to the existing house meter/panel (per the utility company's engineering department) to power the in-law house. The in-law house currently has a subpanel on the outside which is fed with 220v from the main house meter/panel with two 20 amp breakers that power two 20 amp breakers in the subpanel for lights and outlets in the in-law house (It doesn't take much power for the in-law; it is only 400 sq ft, with about 6 outlets and 3 light fixtures and a refrigerator. Stove and water heater are gas). Two 20 amps, as it is, should be sufficient. Do I keep it wired the way it is with two 20s from the new meter panel feeding two 20s in the existing subpanel? As far as grounding, can I use the same grounding rod for the new 100 amp panel that the existing house panel uses? The subpanel has it's own grounding rod located outside the in-law house that is currently connected. I thought a subpanel does not usually have it's own grounding rod if there is one at the main service panel. It it ok to ground the new meter/panel to the existing house ground rod and leave the ground rod for the subpanel connected? What is the correct way for grounding? Thanks in advance!

Storm Door Recommendations

Looking for Storm Door recommendations. I have Home Depot and Lowes near by not that I have to buy from them but they are there. Looking for the best bang for the buck or best value. I have a regular sized door from a very common Raised Ranch type home in sometimes frigid North East/New England area. . Are there any particular features I should be looking for? ....as I have replaced every single window and door in my house I am pretty confident I can knock this out in an afternoon. :)

Frost inside closet

The closet wall was adjacent the exterior wall in a 1' by 1' area where I had a frost build up. Obviously when the weather changed it turned the drywall in that area to mold. Insulation had some discolouration but not much. I ripped out drywall. Couldn't really notice a draught but once I taped the vapour barrier back up I noticed it being sucked in and pushed out with any sorta windy condition outside. The house was built in 73. I have no clue what to do or how to find this issue to correct. Looking for help!!

11 Things a Nashville Dentist Can Teach You About HVAC Service

by Matt Michel Matt Michel uses a recent life experience to illustrate the need for excellence in the HVAC service industry. read more...

EER on Bryant Evolution System?

We are replacing our furnace and A/C with a Bryant evolution system. Furnace model is 987MA60080V21, A/C is a 3 ton in the 189 series (don't have...

Steering Rack Adjustment Screw

I was reading through the FSM for my '08 Acura MDX and there's a screw on the back of the rack called the "Rack Guide Screw". The procedure says to aim the front wheels straight ahead, remove the screw, apply new sealant, and re-install the screw with the socket 15 degrees from vertical. Apparently this screw requires adjustment as the vehicle ages to tighten things up. Other Honda/Acura owners have adjusted this screw to fix loose steering and instability at high speeds and bump steer--exactly what my issue is. Has anyone done this on their vehicle?

Veto pro pac Tech pac Modification

Attachment 515011 (http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=515011) What do you guys think of this? I added a row of neodymium...

Leaky tub

After butchering the cedar panel siding of my 17 year old tub and tearing out foam to locate several incessant leaks over the last few months, I've found the leaks coming from behind several of the jets where the PVC elbow fitting meets the flex pipe. Whats the best way to fix this? Could I seal it with marine epoxy or some sorta plumbers putty?

recessed lighting electrical question

hi guys, quick question. i removed 8 flourcesent ballast lights from my kitchen and ran 12/2 wire for recessed. i have 12 of these fixtures i am installing, Shop Utilitech Brushed Nickel with Black Baffle Remodel Recessed Light Kit (Common: 5-in; Actual: 5-in) at Lowes.com (http://www.lowes.com/pd_53794-53058-9203201_4294566032__?productId=1245659&Ntt=utilitech&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Dutilitech&facetInfo=) and was wondering if the 15a circuit would be ample to support the wattage with 39w halogen bulbs, the max per housing is 50w i believe. thanks in advance.

Outdoor Wood Furnace Options

Hello. We have a metal building that is 80' x 60' x 16'. It has a Lennox gas furnace that keeps the building at around 40 degrees in the winter,...

CO2(R-744) estimated at 40% higher lifetime carbon footprint than R-22 & F-gases

It was reported that CO2 uses about 40% more energy compared to F-gas refrigerants in comfort A/C applications. It is suggested that CO2 has a larger...

Holes In Vinyl Siding

I have a few 1" holes in my siding where water spigots were removed and another 1.5" hole where a pvc pipe was removed. I filled the holes with expandable foam and put metal plates over the holes on the interior of the sillplate where they exited from the basement. On the outside on the otherhand it is ugly, I have cut the foam flush with the siding and spray painted it. How do I go about matching full panels of vinyl siding? Alternately, how could I repair just these small holes?

Trane BCU with Honeywell EBI

Hi all, We have a trane chiller connected to a BCU that is interfaced with a Honeywell OpenLink Controller which is then connected to a C-BUS. The...

How to fill 1/2" and 5/8" holes in drywall ?

What patching material should I use? I have lightweight spackle, but that won't work, will it? How do I keep the material from falling out of the hole? Thanks.

3" direct vent/ get it out

So new construction. floor is AT the foundation so there is no side wall to run venting through? Just build a chase to run it up and out the wall?...

Mold on plywood in cold room

Hi All, I just purchased my first house and noticed that there is some mold on the plywood of the cold room ceiling which I'd like to remove. My question is, is it better to simply remove all this wood in order to get rid of the mold (and if so how can I go about doing this)? Or am I better off leaving the wood as is and trying to clean the mold off it? Also, does it look like the black shading on the concrete is mold as well? Attachment 38856 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/basements-attics-crawl-spaces/38856-mold-plywood-cold-room-20140910_144634.jpg)

Master bedroom warmer than rest of the upstairs

The vitals: 2 story home approximately 3400sq/ft 2 Honeywell Focus PRO TH6000 thermostats Honeywell Y8150 Fresh Air Ventilation System...

Nothing Wrong Here! Move Along, Move Along!

Attachment 514941 (http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=514941) Attachment 514951...

Honeywell lonspec database

I have a file titled project.mdb and I am trying to open it in Lonspec. I copied it into the folder with other projects but it doesn't show up. I...

Oh boy. Russian Plumbing

Image: http://i.imgur.com/7KBIWV7.jpg That water and drain hook up :eek2: No floor drain. It's gonna get interesting both inside and outside...

Yank it all out!

Hello again, I'm getting ready to pull up all my carpeting and vinyl in preparation for a laminate install. Seems pretty straight-forward to me but I thought maybe I should run it by you guys. Any tips and tricks you can pass along?

Had a scare today.How bad of a AC problem do I have?

My son came running out of the house today to get me.Went inside and found light smoke throughout the house with the smell of burning wire.After scrambling around trying to figure where it was coming from I noticed the wall thermostat on the wall had no power..I went and kicked the breaker to the AC unit for extra precaution. Can anybody give me an idea of what might have happened?I am guessing the blower burnt up and the smell and smoke is whats coming throughout the house?Its been 4 hours now and still have that smell ,not as bad but still smells.I got all the windows opened up.Luckly its kinda cool here right now so being without an air conditioner at this time of the year isnt to bad Any help would be greatly appreciated,Thanks

Trane Controls Tech?

I have been offered a job as a controls tech with Trane (southeast) Anyone have any thoughts? how are they to work for? Advancement? Future? etc.

Window leak in interior

I have a decorative window (doesn't open) that has a small leak between the seams of a vinyl frame. Not where the glass meets the frame and not where the frame meets the wall, but where the vinyl meets itself. Can this be easily fixed?

owner

Have a Dungs MV, and regulator, 2lb.meter , natural gas, a commercial Oven , for Chezzy Puffs, replsced vslve, with Identical, but flame is larger,...

How many vents and returns and where should they go??

So as it stands, I have two heat vents and one return for the whole downstairs. The return did go down a wall to the floor but I have removed that wall. How many vents and returns should I have to sufficiently cover this area and where should they go? Should I keep them all in the soffit? There is only a couple areas That I can bring the vents or returns to the floor due to the foundations sill. Maybe just add one heat vent for the bathroom? (The room I am standing in when I took this picture will be the bathroom. Next to it, the kitchen then an open studio type room.) Any suggestions are appreciated Attachment 38828 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/basements-attics-crawl-spaces/38828-how-many-vents-returns-where-should-they-go-20140924_174756.jpg)

fx-pcg boiler rotate and px page print

Good evening, I have setup several JCI FX-PCG controllers one of them being on a boiler plant. These controllers are brought into a Jace 600. What I...

BAS Technician

If someone wanted to be a BAS Technician, and I realize this is a broad term, what are the industry-recognized certifications this person would want...

Tricky situation with HVAC contractor

I didn't know where to post this. Its HVAC related, but its not that I am asking for DIY help. I had the HVAC co. that installed my furnace out at the end of the last heating season to repair a condensate leak in my furnace. At the time it was under warranty. They replaced a part that they felt would cure the problem. That day I ran the furnace for a few hours after the replacement and the "leak" appeared to have been fixed. However, since that day we have not run the furnace for months and the furnace labor warranty has since expired. I am concerned that the condensate leak didn't appear that day it was fixed since it was warm outside when we were testing it. I fear the leak may still surface if its cold outside where condensation would form. Anyway, what I am asking here is if the leak were to occur again.... do you feel that any labor involved in repairing it should still be covered under the expired warranty since they were initially out during the warranty period for this same issue?

Wiring advise for bathroom fixtures

Hi all, Need some advise on how to proceed with this if anyone out there has experienced doing this. Just moved into a new ( older) house and in the bathroom there is a medicine cabinet/mirror. Instead of a wall switch there are two small incandescent fixtures on each side of the cabinet. At the bottom of each fixture is a plugs and a small rotary switch that turns each one on individually. I would like to add a wall switch and plug next to the right hand fixture about a foot away. Then add either a light bar above the mirror ( would require patching ugghh) or two small fixtures to replace the existing so no patching. I am guessing that the easiest thing to do is remove the medicine cabinet and then try and fish wires to a new box cut in on right side. Both fixtures should have straight power all the time now so I can do any additional splicing in the existing boxes. I am wondering if there is usually room between the back of cabinet and wall to run a new line behind it if need be. Thx for any assistance.

Honeywell th8320wf thermostat - auto changeover feature

Hi, I just had an entirely brand new HVAC system installed. A trane AC and Natural Gas system. My the install included a new Honeywell th8320wf...

Landscape lighting not working

HI, About 3 weeks ago, I thought we had a lightning strike close to the house. All was well except the landscape lighting stopped working. I tested the tranformer/timer and it was toast. I replaced it, and tested the system. The 7 lights in the back yard worked, the 7 in the front yard did not. I check a few bulbs and they were ok. I check the voltage at those same fixtures and they were dead. I started pulling on wires from each fixture and ended up at a sort of junction point in the middle of the front yard. I disconnected all of the wires from this point which turned out to be 7. I turned the transformer back on and the lights in the back went on, the ones in the front were dead. I checked the heavier duty wire that seemed to be coming from the direction of the new transformer and it read 12v, so I was confident I had the curcuit for the front yard. I wired back one fixture to this line, checked it with the multimeter and got zeros, I take the fixture wires off and I get 12v. Why would this be? I did this for 3 seperate fixtures and got the same results. Also, none of the lights came on either.

Simplest, Cost Effective Way to Run Power to Garage for Garage Door Opener

Hey All, I am a brand new home owner and always looking for ways to save money with all the new projects that are arising. For this one, I want to run power out to my garage. mainly just for the door opener, but also very occasional power tool use. I was thinking just putting a single outlet would be completely fine. I already have a GFCI outlet on the exterior of the house, and my thought was to just move that outlet 30 feet to the front corner of the garage by buying some UF 12/3, splicing into that existing wire, bury 2 feet under ground and come up into the front wall of the garage. Then just run an extension cord up to the door opener, and for any simple small use power tools I might need. Or could I then just get a standard outlet and interior wiring to add one additional outlet at my work bench? I had an electrician come out the other day, and he was wanting to start all the way back at the panel that is on the other side of the house, run 100-150 ft of Romex inside, then switch to THHN in PVC for the outdoor run and back to Romex in the garage. He hasn't got back to me with the quote yet, but by the sounds of it, I would be looking at several hundred dollars, whereas if i just buy the UF cable I would be under $50. What do you think? Is there any reason why I should not try it myself? I don't think I would be using enough to trip the current breaker, so the only other reason not to would be if it is unsafe? Thank you all in advance for your time and expertise!

Should You Market for Awareness?

Andy Fracica For future growth during long HVAC product lifecycles, your messaging, your ads, your brochures, your trucks, your website, and...

New window in play house

Hi, I'm building a playhouse for my kids - the top having a closed in fort area. I want to add a couple windows, and found shed windows 12x18 for new construction with a nailing flange. Framing seems simple enough - I just have one question really. Regarding the rough opening, and then using shims... since there is no interior wall - so no trim or anything can I make the rough opening the exact size of the window - and then just slide it in, screw the flange in and be done? Any advice appreciated.

Cleaning drain pans/drain lines on ductless splits.

Anyone know of a way to clean the drain pan and line on these things? I've been on a couple calls for drains and all I can come up with is taking the...

clamps in calculating box size

As part of calculating required box size, you count: 1 – for each hot and neutral wire entering the box 1 – for all the ground wires combined 1 – for all the cable clamps combined (if any) 2 – for each device (switch or outlet—but not light fixtures) When counting clamps, is this just the plastic type clamps that you can clip in? Most boxes already come with clamps included in them so are you supposed to count these as well? What if you only use 1 side or 1 of the included clamps?

Tridium Niagara and Iconics

Hello all, I am hoping someone with experience and have used these systems would come across and be able to answer this .. I program in Niagara...

Help! Polyurethane Problems!

Hi, I recently decided to re finish a solid oak kitchen table. I have completed the stripping, sanding and staining (minmax black walnut stain) process now I have moved on to using a minwax oil based polyurethane. I have applied two coats already and I have small un polyurethane areas everywhere (see picture)! I realize the poly is not supposed to soak into the wood but it is as if its not adhering. I don't want to strip down this table and start over. Do I have any other options?! Please help!

vacuum pump issue

I am having issues pulling a low vacuum with my Robinair 5cfm pump. It has worked great until recently. I decided to run some tests on it. To try...

Emersson electronic expansion vavles?

Just followed a training from emersson on these valves . It was more of sales conference. But hey he sold me. Was wondering if you guys have worked...

Have old thin set on horsehair, how to begin a backsplash

Hi all, I removed tile backsplash in my kitchen and have old, wavy thin set on horsehair. I want to install a new backsplash, but I cannot remove the thin set without damaging the wall. I was thinking of putting up laminate drywall to cover it, then tiling over that. Any ideas on how to tackle this without removing the walls and replacing new drywall?

Magnetic Vs. Electronic Fluorescent Ballasts ?

hi i have question about Magnetic and Electronic Fluorescent Ballasts which one is the best advantage and disadvantage

Wanted: Siemens Insight dongle + license

Anyone selling sentinel and license key for (any version of) Siemens Insight? Thanks

home-made Kegerator

So one of the guys at work brews his own beer and he wants to build his own Kegerator but he's a carpenter/builder by trade. He built the box (about...

Thinking about buying a programmable thermostat - doing homework first

I currently live in an apartment, and I currently have a trane thermostat ; I want to replace it with a programmable honeywell thermostat located here: Honeywell | Wi-Fi Smart Thermostat (http://yourhome.honeywell.com/home/Products/Thermostats/7-Day-Programmable/Wi-Fi+Smart+Thermostat.htm) I have read the manual for the thermostat I want to buy - before buying it (I don't want to buy it then try to "wing it" and find out I can't use it) - but I guess my trane is old I am missing 3 wires to match Here is what my Trane looks like: Attachment 38804 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/thermostatic-controls/38804-thinking-about-buying-programmable-thermostat-doing-homework-first-imgp0791.jpg)