Friday, October 31, 2014
Carrier Weathermaker 8000 Heat and Cycling Problems
Hello all,
First time posting here.
My Weathermaker 8000 lights up fine and all burners are lit, but the heat coming out of the vents is warm at best. Filters are new. Air flow is good. But it just doesn't get hot. Every other house I have lived it it would burn your feet if you stand on the vents. This one will barely get your toes warm.
Also, it will cycle on and run for about 5-10 minutes and then cycle off. After going off, it will come back on 30 seconds later. It will just keep doing this as the house never warms up to the set temp.
Flame sensor is clean, I even tried cleaning it more just in case. That is about the only thing I know to check. Please give me more ideas.
Help Please
We live in Ohio and are planning to replace our Heat pump and Heat Exchange. I have read many of the threads posted comparing different...
Type of wire to use for DSC PC1832
Hello,
I am installing my new alarm system but I run short in wire, which is a 4-22.
The DSC system requires to use wire with 18 to 22 Gauge. I have a bunch of speaker wire with 18 Gauge and I am wondering is it's safe to use for my last device I need to connect to the system. the device is a smoke detector.
Any previous experience on this ?
Thanks.
Long Zip-Chuck
Anyone know where I can find 1/4 and 5/16 zip-chucks that are 8-12" long? All I've found are the 6" Malco's, won't quite make it for Skuttle Air...
Narrow Rheem furnace
I looked at an older condo building that needs 30 old 10" wide Rheem furnaces replaced. Does anyone know if there is still an 80% AFUE furnace that...
How can I add a door to my basement?
So the problem that we have is that the previous homeowners built on a mud room to the back of our home and the door to the basement no longer fit. So they just put up a make-shift door with no frame and used a baby lock device to keep it shut. The issue I'm having is that the opening for the door is only 68 in high and immediately starts going down at a 45 degree angle so there is no room for a door frame inside the current opening. I don't mind building out slightly but would hate for it to be more than an inch or 2 build out. I'm tired of how awful the door looks, but I'm lost for how to fix it. Any advise would be so greatly appreciated!
HVAC Evaporator Coil
I use a home warranty, and my evaporator coil needs to be replaced. The contractor said it would be $750 to bring things "up to code" before he would...
Need mixing valve with ratio control
I didn't think this would be so difficult to find, but I am in need of a mixing valve that allows me to control ratio.
I need to set it up on a barrel of concentrated cleaning solution. Ideally it has water and the chemical both coming in, and then mixing together at a 2:1 ratio in the output. It's for an industrial setting so needs to be fairly accurate.
Can anyone think of what it is I need? I've looked at the thermostatic valves but they don't appear to have the type of control I need.
Thanks for any help
7 MM laminate transitions to tile and around patio door
I am starting to prepare to put down 450 sq ft of 7MM flooring. I have a back room with a patio door that has an aluminum frame. The subfloor is all concrete.
I can't use a T molding around the door frame as the floor is higher than the metal. How do I attach a reducer to the concrete?
Also, there is a slight difference between the tile and laminate in height. Should I use a reducer or T Molding? Can I put something under the laminate as a slight shim to increase the height or would this cause the flooring to break?
Also, the length of the trim is too short around the tile so I would have to use two pieces. How do I connect them? Do I just glue them together like | or do I need to cut on a 45 degree angle ?
Are there any other alternatives to these transitions with laminate flooring? The trims are not well made although they sell with the flooring. I would really prefer wood and just stain it darker to match.
Thursday, October 30, 2014
SOS!! A/C with mold and musty smell coming from ducts!
My mother passed away in May of 1996. The house stood empty until we moved in March 1998. In the meantime, during the winter (I can't recall if it...
Testo 557
Attachment 525191 (http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=525191)Attachment 525201...
Sound coming from baseboard pipe (in 1 room only) when hydronic heat is on.
There is a constant sound coming from 1 room on the second floor from a pipe that is inside the baseboard radiator. For some reason all the other room's don't have this sound. The sound is from the pipe and not the baseboard. It only comes on when the heat is on and the pump is pumping water through the system.
2 weeks ago the expansion tank was changed and the system purged. The heat has not been on since that time. Last year this was did not exist. It's a constant dull sound (like if something was moving through the pipe, maybe like light humming but not really). There is no vibration. The pressure in the system is 14 Cold.
What could this be?
Is my door warped?
Moved into a new house that's about 10 years old mid-summer this year. So far the house has been great.
The issue is with the back door. Let me explain a bit about the door first:
* The door appears to be solid wood. It's very heavy.
* I think it's 8ft tall and held up by 4 hinges
* It has a large and long vertical glass window in the middle of it
How's business?
With a solid 3.5% growth rate in the U.S. economy for the 3rd quarter and new housing starts up 6.3% in September (the most recent report), how's...
Readiness Monitor - FAILED EMMISION
This is completely ridiculous and I am having trouble trying to understand this!
I had check engine light. Coolant problem. I replaced a thermostat and sensor and all is fine with the vehicle. During my repair I disconnected the battery... it also cleared the check engine light.
Later that same day, I took it in for a due emission testing and it bleeping failed!!
Reason: INCOMPLETE READINESS MONITOR: EVAP, OXYGEN, OXYHEAT.
How can I reset these? Is it a matter of driving it and it will clear itself? How the heck long does that take?
Oh What A Tangled Web We Weave
A look behind the scenes of real political machinations.
Well worth watching...
1)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CuAIN4wF24k
2)...
Carrier AC External Unit making loud noise
Hi,
I have a Carrier External AC unit (3.5 Tons) and it just starting to make a loud "Singing" kind of noise. I'm not sure if it is the Fan bearing or Motor Bearing but I'm assuming it's probably some bearing. Is there any way to determine which bearing it is or how can I definitely find out what is causing this singing noise? The unit is about 16 years old. Can I add lubrication to any part that may stop this noise? The unit is working fine except for the noise. Thanks for any help.
Wednesday, October 29, 2014
Your specific HVAC position
Hey guys how yall doing?
I'm still in a technical school for an HVAC associates degree.
I know there are PLENTY of different jobs in the HVAC...
Trane blower gives tinny raspy noise on high speed
I have a Trane 2 stage gas furnace connected to a heat pump and it is about 12 years old. For the last couple of months we have had a tinny-raspy noise when running in HEAT or in COOL mode. If the fan is turned on manually there is no noise. So today I took the blower unit out and cleaned the entire assembly (housing, squirrel cage unit and motor). They were a little dusty but not bad for the time installed. I took the motor apart, oiling the sleeve bearings and then reassembled the entire unit and reinstalled it. The motor is a 4-speed unit. Further diagnosing it, it would run on low speed when manually turning on the fan. Swapping the low-speed and high-speed it then would make the noise when manually turning on the fan. Calling a motor repair shop I use they said they doubt it to be the motor, but they would guess it to be the squirrel cage itself. They said that the cage will loosen up when the "fins" are crimped together to make the assembly and will cause noise and could well be speed sensitive. What is your opinion? Can I silver solder all points and save a little, or should I buy new?
Access Panel Through Two Walls
Hello -
I'm a newbie to DIY Home Improvement, so please bear with me. I need to cut an access panel through two walls in order to reach through one side of the wall to the other side where my washer/dryer sits. I need to do this so that I can appropriately connect my dryer hose from the dryer to the outlet.
I plan on installing a plastic access panel, such as this (Access Doors & Panels | Flush Access Doors | Plastic Access Door - 8 x 8 | B204666 - GlobalIndustrial.com (http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/building-materials/access-doors-and-panels/flush-access-doors/plastic-access-door-8-x-8?infoParam.campaignId=T9F&gclid=CKKPqZqL08ECFZM1aQodwyoAVA&gclsrc=aw.ds)).
I understand how one cuts and installs an access panel through one sheet of drywall, and I will first install the plastic access door through drywall sheet #1. For drywall sheet #2 (the wall immediately adjacent to the washer dryer), I assume I will do the same except I would be installing the access door on inside of the drywall (rather than the outside as for sheet #1).
Any tips? My guess is that there will be both plumbing and wiring between the drywall sheets, given the washer dryer. I assume I should shut off electricity first?
Ax BACnet Export Write Fail
I have a customer that is putting some demand based energy software into his facility and he wants to use it to command points in the Jace via BACnet...
HVAC Installer in Columbus, Ohio
Are you an experienced AIR CONDITIONING/HEATING RESIDENTIAL INSTALLER
who is interested in working for an established growth oriented great local...
Help - Fire Pit Question
I've been given an old John Deere 40" combine wheel from my cousin in MS. I'm in the process of building a 14' circular flagstone patio, with the wheel/firepit in the middle.
My question is this: I want to wrap the wheel in stacked stone. The way the wheel sits on the ground, it's a bit concave from the bottom to the top of the wheel. If you can imagine a wheel without a tire on, it's not perfectly straight up and down, it's concave for the tube to sit in. My thought was to simply start stacking the stones, with the thought of having to "backfill" some of the concrete in the middle of the wheel, so the stones with be perfectly straight. Problem is, I think that wheel will get too hot, and the mortar will crack. Am I right here??
I'm new to masonry work, and need help please.
My other thought was to start with firebrick on the outside of the wheel, then start stacking my rock on against the firebrick, instead of the wheel. I would rather not use firebrick, because that's just adding another step, and why use the wheel at all if I have to use brick.
Hope I'm making sense here, hard to explain since I'm such a novice. Any help will be more than appreciated!!
Why can't I glue carpet "loose laid" to DRIcore?
I have asbestos tiles in my basement so I want to cover them with DRIcore and then put carpet on top of that. Because I do not want to puncture the asbestos tiles with anything I can't do the "anchor the perimeter to the concrete" technique that DRIcore suggests. So this also rules out tack strips, pad and stretching as the unattached DRIcore panels would buckle/lift. That's all fine. I actually just want a glue-down industrial/office type of carpet down there anyway. So what I was hoping to do is just put down the DRIcore and then glue the carpet directly to that. But the DRIcore instructions say not to glue carpet or pad to the DRIcore. Why? What harm would that cause?
UPDATED POST WITH YOUR GREAT WORK
Hi all,
I just updated the CB version of the Wall of Pride. I included more from Jimmyed, cody350, mason and BP1972.
THANK YOU for your great...
UPDATED POST WITH YOUR GREAT WORK
Hi all,
I just updated the CB version of the Wall of Pride. I included more from Jimmyed, cody350, mason and BP1972.
THANK YOU for your great...
Water Heater Sediment
I had a sudden burst of sediment out of my water heater to the fixtures in my house. They are white and gray rocks/flakes. It clogged up the hot side of all of my sink fixtures. The tub fixtures did not get clogged up, so I was able to see what the sediment is. I have an 80 gallon electric water heater. It is about 8 years old. We have never had any issues with hot water temperatures or quantity of hot water. I can't figure out why this suddenly happened. Is it possible that my water heater is hooked up backwards,so the water is leaving the WH from the bottom where the sediment is? I drained my WH last year, so the sediment must have come from the city main suddenly also. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Tuesday, October 28, 2014
Proper way to fix a leak on roof?
Hello,
I have a leak between the vinyl siding chimney and the shingles on the roof of my house. Before I start and try to fix it, I would like to ask the pro's here what is the proper way to fix it.
Thank you
Proper way to fix a leak on roof?
Hello,
I have a leak between the vinyl siding chimney and the shingles on the roof of my house. Before I start and try to fix it, I would like to ask the pro's here what is the proper way to fix it.
Thank you
New Lennox system - got rid of the yellow fluffy stuff
Image: http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/540/OKDkJp.jpg
Image: http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/911/MhyluQ.jpg
Image:...
New Lennox system - got rid of the yellow fluffy stuff
Image: http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/540/OKDkJp.jpg
Image: http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/911/MhyluQ.jpg
Image:...
Proper way to fix a leak on roof?
Hello,
I have a leak between the vinyl siding chimney and the shingles on the roof of my house. Before I start and try to fix it, I would like to ask the pro's here what is the proper way to fix it.
Thank you
Proper way to fix a leak on roof?
Hello,
I have a leak between the vinyl siding chimney and the shingles on the roof of my house. Before I start and try to fix it, I would like to ask the pro's here what is the proper way to fix it.
Thank you
Add door sensor
I've added a door sensor before, but something is different this time.
I have an Ademco Lynxr-CR as it shows on the circuit board. Trying to add a sensor that I bought on Amazon, a 5816VMWH.
When going through the steps the system will not take the serial number shown on the outside of the device.
I have tried entering manually and using the 4 transmissions 5 seconds apart method.
When out of programming if I pull the magnet away from the sensor the alarm announces "disarmed, not ready to arm"
Ethernet as a fieldbus
Hey controls guys, I'm just starting to learn this stuff, and am confused and intimidated by the vast array of protocols and differing physical layer...
Ethernet as a fieldbus
Hey controls guys, I'm just starting to learn this stuff, and am confused and intimidated by the vast array of protocols and differing physical layer...
Add door sensor
I've added a door sensor before, but something is different this time.
I have an Ademco Lynxr-CR as it shows on the circuit board. Trying to add a sensor that I bought on Amazon, a 5816VMWH.
When going through the steps the system will not take the serial number shown on the outside of the device.
I have tried entering manually and using the 4 transmissions 5 seconds apart method.
When out of programming if I pull the magnet away from the sensor the alarm announces "disarmed, not ready to arm"
Trane Clean Effects problem
Hi, I have a Trane XV90 2 stage variable speed furnace and Trane A/C unit with a cleaneffects filter, using a Trane 2 stage stat. My question is...
DIY? Replace low hanging boiler lines with pex?
Awesome site. Appreciate ideas, comments on my issue.
We are in a 100 year old modest character home, 625sq ft per floor, 2 floors and an unfinished basement, with a 25-30 year old Burnham water boiler with newer circulation pump, attached to large dia(2.5" reducing to 1" at the end of the run) iron(?) supply/return lines that may be from the 1930's. These supply cast iron rads (approx 2'x3'each), one per room. Basement is heated only by the exposed heating lines. It all works fine at this point, reasonable heating bills, no concerns.
Time to finish the basement, so those low hanging (approx 5' 10" off the floor) heating pipes have to be raised to the joists. A neighbour told me about his friend having it done with pex. I am handy and would take this on if it can be a
diy job. We would be happy to simply replace the basement lines at this point, and add some basement rads, and do nothing else.
Can we simply run basement pex and connect to the iron lines that come from the rads thru the main floor into the basement (from both levels)? I don't want to get into fishing pex thru walls/floors to get to the upper level at this
point if i don't have to.
Is it necessary (i imagine advisable) to ensure the supply/return pex is always at or below the level of old rad pipe connection point in the basement, to avoid air locks, or is this really a concern? Some of these pipe fittings occur (not
DIY? Replace low hanging boiler lines with pex?
Awesome site. Appreciate ideas, comments on my issue.
We are in a 100 year old modest character home, 625sq ft per floor, 2 floors and an unfinished basement, with a 25-30 year old Burnham water boiler with newer circulation pump, attached to large dia(2.5" reducing to 1" at the end of the run) iron(?) supply/return lines that may be from the 1930's. These supply cast iron rads (approx 2'x3'each), one per room. Basement is heated only by the exposed heating lines. It all works fine at this point, reasonable heating bills, no concerns.
Time to finish the basement, so those low hanging (approx 5' 10" off the floor) heating pipes have to be raised to the joists. A neighbour told me about his friend having it done with pex. I am handy and would take this on if it can be a
diy job. We would be happy to simply replace the basement lines at this point, and add some basement rads, and do nothing else.
Can we simply run basement pex and connect to the iron lines that come from the rads thru the main floor into the basement (from both levels)? I don't want to get into fishing pex thru walls/floors to get to the upper level at this
point if i don't have to.
Is it necessary (i imagine advisable) to ensure the supply/return pex is always at or below the level of old rad pipe connection point in the basement, to avoid air locks, or is this really a concern? Some of these pipe fittings occur (not
Trane Clean Effects problem
Hi, I have a Trane XV90 2 stage variable speed furnace and Trane A/C unit with a cleaneffects filter, using a Trane 2 stage stat. My question is...
not enough hot water
i have a weil mclain wtgo-4 boiler... my hot water supply is very little and the water seems to be colder than usual. I used to have unlimited hot water, now only 5 min or so. all started happening after i had it serviced/cleaned. Just replaced igniter as well. Its 18 yrs old. What should i check next?
not enough hot water
i have a weil mclain wtgo-4 boiler... my hot water supply is very little and the water seems to be colder than usual. I used to have unlimited hot water, now only 5 min or so. all started happening after i had it serviced/cleaned. Just replaced igniter as well. Its 18 yrs old. What should i check next?
Help on goodman gas heat and el. Air
i dont know model number can get it tho. It started fan would not cut off return air i guess i replaced the i dont know what this crap is called neather lmao but its the thing with points takes 24v. Then the dell that cutsit down 2 24v then i noteced a light flashing and seen on door it was a list of what flashes wa. It sad something was open.ok i found that its 2 little round things ont top one lower above were flames are but when i took them out i omd them out and they were closed. If i have the thormast wired up wrong can it give me that err.i can mash the 24v deal that has the points and every thing workes good tell i let it go
Trane Voyager/ Reliatel Draft motors staying on?
I've got 2) 2005 Trane RTU's, with the draft motors staying on, as long as the unit is powered up?
One is running in high speed, the other in low....
Trane Voyager/ Reliatel Draft motors staying on?
I've got 2) 2005 Trane RTU's, with the draft motors staying on, as long as the unit is powered up?
One is running in high speed, the other in low....
Help on goodman gas heat and el. Air
i dont know model number can get it tho. It started fan would not cut off return air i guess i replaced the i dont know what this crap is called neather lmao but its the thing with points takes 24v. Then the dell that cutsit down 2 24v then i noteced a light flashing and seen on door it was a list of what flashes wa. It sad something was open.ok i found that its 2 little round things ont top one lower above were flames are but when i took them out i omd them out and they were closed. If i have the thormast wired up wrong can it give me that err.i can mash the 24v deal that has the points and every thing workes good tell i let it go
Monday, October 27, 2014
Trane XE90 cycling, need to clean flame sensor but can't open
Hi, I'm new to the forums. It's pretty humid where I live, getting pretty cold now too. We recently started the furnace back up, and it worked fine last year. Now it is cycling. This seems like an issue with a dirty flame sensor, but I can't for the life of me figure how to get the control access panel open.
I made a video showing the access panel and screws. I tried those screws shown in the video (3 on left, 1 on right) but they didn't help the access panel come out. I don't see any other screws, and the instructions I find for the XE90 say to loosen four screws to open it.
Thanks for your help.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ha8fh8lxB_4&list=UUeiXujXHoChs1pL8oPA8LtA
Burnt/burned wires inside furnace
Hi, I'm trying to research what exactly caused burned wires inside my unit. I've attached some pictures to visualize it.
Equipment is a goodman...
Check Valve in circulator. Remove or not.
I'm replacing the circulator pump (bg100) with a UPS15-58FC grundfos 1/25hp
which comes with an easy removable integrated check valve.
I've seen a few people suggest removing this altogether from the unit..
Any pros/cons to that. I'm guessing that might improve flow somewhat?
I wouldn't want to do anything that would be economically inefficient or
great harm the system. I've read up a little on the valve to find out what
it might do but I don't know if its presence is all that necessary.
10 Stylishly Spooky Halloween Decorations
Check Valve in circulator. Remove or not.
I'm replacing the circulator pump (bg100) with a UPS15-58FC grundfos 1/25hp
which comes with an easy removable integrated check valve.
I've seen a few people suggest removing this altogether from the unit..
Any pros/cons to that. I'm guessing that might improve flow somewhat?
I wouldn't want to do anything that would be economically inefficient or
great harm the system. I've read up a little on the valve to find out what
it might do but I don't know if its presence is all that necessary.
10 Stylishly Spooky Halloween Decorations
Mitsubishi Mr. SLIM
I have a Mitsubishi Mr Slim ductless wall unit in my upstairs addition to my home. It was already installed when I bought the home in 2013 but now it...
Service fee please.... see you later!
Got a call this morning to check out a ceiling diffuser that was condensating.... found this at the house.
Image:...
Moaning sound from plumbing after flushing toilet....
Hello all,
A while back our main drainage line was stopped up, so we had to have someone come out and snake the line from the outside. They fixed that problem but ever since, the plumbing has made some loud moaning sounds whenever the downstairs toilet is flushed. It can be heard from the upstairs bedrooms also. It's the loudest in the wall right behind the downstairs toilet and runs up the walls. It only lasts for a few seconds and then stops. I'm not sure where to start, so I'm hoping to get some advice here. Thanks in advance for your help!
Tags: toilet, plumbing, pipes, noise, sounds, moaning
Moaning sound from plumbing after flushing toilet....
Hello all,
A while back our main drainage line was stopped up, so we had to have someone come out and snake the line from the outside. They fixed that problem but ever since, the plumbing has made some loud moaning sounds whenever the downstairs toilet is flushed. It can be heard from the upstairs bedrooms also. It's the loudest in the wall right behind the downstairs toilet and runs up the walls. It only lasts for a few seconds and then stops. I'm not sure where to start, so I'm hoping to get some advice here. Thanks in advance for your help!
Tags: toilet, plumbing, pipes, noise, sounds, moaning
Service fee please.... see you later!
Got a call this morning to check out a ceiling diffuser that was condensating.... found this at the house.
Image:...
Weather Watch Ice/Water Shield Question
Hey guys,
The instructions on the weather watch ice/water shield are a bit vague. Obviously, you pull off the white plastic on the back to adhere it to the roof. My question is, what is the little adhesive strip on the other side that faces up once installed? I assumed it was to adhere the shingles to the ice/water shield, but the dang white plastic seems like it's melted to the little adhesive strip and is almost impossible to get off. (it's about 4" wide at the bottom of the ice/water shield).
Are you supposed to remove the thin white plastic from that adhesive strip, or is it meant to be left on?
Adding two more Registers to existing Hvac
Hi everyone
I live in Ontario Canada in house which is 1400 sq feet .
My Furnace is :
Carrier Model 58MSA060-1-08
BTU on label inside the...
Adding two more Registers to existing Hvac
Hi everyone
I live in Ontario Canada in house which is 1400 sq feet .
My Furnace is :
Carrier Model 58MSA060-1-08
BTU on label inside the...
2 wire heater to 3 wire plug??
Hi there ,
I have garage heater and it has 2 load wires and a ground the plug is a leviton that has 2 loads /1 neutral and a ground. How do I wire the heater to this plug? Do I wire up the 2 loads and ground and put a marette on the neutral on the power plug ??
This is the heater I have:
6,000W Shop Heater | Princess Auto (http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/U...ater/8553521.p)
this is the plug I have: Norwood | Stove Cord Kit | Home Depot Canada (http://www.homedepot.ca/product/stove-cord-kit/947835)
Thx
honeywell openlink point server
Hi
I have and m-bus line with controller from relay.de DR005
http://www.relay.de/uploads/media/DR0056_DBlt_de.PDF
and it's connected through...
Community Involvement Award
We are very proud to have been recognized and to have received the award for Community Involvement at the recent Chamber Of Commerce Business Awards event. It is certainly an honour to receive this award, however that is not why we contribute. We are thankful for the support of our customers for our family owned business and believe that giving back to help make communities a better place to live is very important.
Community Involvement Award
We are very proud to have been recognized and to have received the award for Community Involvement at the recent Chamber Of Commerce Business Awards event. It is certainly an honour to receive this award, however that is not why we contribute. We are thankful for the support of our customers for our family owned business and believe that giving back to help make communities a better place to live is very important.
honeywell openlink point server
Hi
I have and m-bus line with controller from relay.de DR005
http://www.relay.de/uploads/media/DR0056_DBlt_de.PDF
and it's connected through...
2 wire heater to 3 wire plug??
Hi there ,
I have garage heater and it has 2 load wires and a ground the plug is a leviton that has 2 loads /1 neutral and a ground. How do I wire the heater to this plug? Do I wire up the 2 loads and ground and put a marette on the neutral on the power plug ??
This is the heater I have:
6,000W Shop Heater | Princess Auto (http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/U...ater/8553521.p)
this is the plug I have: Norwood | Stove Cord Kit | Home Depot Canada (http://www.homedepot.ca/product/stove-cord-kit/947835)
Thx
Obstructed Intake Causing My Fault Code?
This is probably a no-brainer but thought I would check just in case.
The furnace is a Coleman TM9V, 96%. We moved in to the house a year ago and had no issues with the furnace (it was only a couple years old). I did replace the leaky condensate pan with the updated pan, but that was about it. This year I picked up a different thermostat to take advantage of the 2 stages (original tstat was only 1 stage).
Four or five days ago the furnace wasn't kicking on. The blower motor was spinning slowly but that was about it. I pulled the panels off before I remembered to look for a fault code. Reinstalled the panels and the furnace started up and returned to normal.
Today it happened again, but this time I watched for a code. 5 red flashes: "Rollout switch or blocked condensate switch is open". I noticed what looked to be fluffy insulation laying beneath the blower motor...weird. After looking a bit closer the fluffy insulation was actually feathers and there was a dead bird stuck in the screen for the intake pipe! Gross!
Image: http://i.imgur.com/iM71ij1s.jpg (http://imgur.com/iM71ij1.jpg)
Obstructed Intake Causing My Fault Code?
This is probably a no-brainer but thought I would check just in case.
The furnace is a Coleman TM9V, 96%. We moved in to the house a year ago and had no issues with the furnace (it was only a couple years old). I did replace the leaky condensate pan with the updated pan, but that was about it. This year I picked up a different thermostat to take advantage of the 2 stages (original tstat was only 1 stage).
Four or five days ago the furnace wasn't kicking on. The blower motor was spinning slowly but that was about it. I pulled the panels off before I remembered to look for a fault code. Reinstalled the panels and the furnace started up and returned to normal.
Today it happened again, but this time I watched for a code. 5 red flashes: "Rollout switch or blocked condensate switch is open". I noticed what looked to be fluffy insulation laying beneath the blower motor...weird. After looking a bit closer the fluffy insulation was actually feathers and there was a dead bird stuck in the screen for the intake pipe! Gross!
Image: http://i.imgur.com/iM71ij1s.jpg (http://imgur.com/iM71ij1.jpg)
Sunday, October 26, 2014
Need information for tecumseh carb.
I have a Mtd snowblower with a Tecumseh hsk 600 1627t carb.I took pictures when I removed it but somehow I can't find them. Anyway when installing the unit to engine there is linkage to the governor and when installing left mounting screw there is a metal piece like linkage with hole that as I remember hooks onto the governor. From what I've read it is like the throttle lever. I believe it is a 2001 model. The lever I'm referring to seems to be bent from the factory for some reason.I have not seen another carb that resembles it with this lingage setup.I had a spring on it which I can't find.Any ideas about what this spring does or how I can purchase one.
Take a guess how this happen. Took 6 months to wear down to this condition.
Yes. It is from a Trane RTU. Job was quoted 6 months ago. Never approved. Until now.
Attachment 524211...
Take a guess how this happen. Took 6 months to wear down to this condition.
Yes. It is from a Trane RTU. Job was quoted 6 months ago. Never approved. Until now.
Attachment 524211...
Need information for tecumseh carb.
I have a Mtd snowblower with a Tecumseh hsk 600 1627t carb.I took pictures when I removed it but somehow I can't find them. Anyway when installing the unit to engine there is linkage to the governor and when installing left mounting screw there is a metal piece like linkage with hole that as I remember hooks onto the governor. From what I've read it is like the throttle lever. I believe it is a 2001 model. The lever I'm referring to seems to be bent from the factory for some reason.I have not seen another carb that resembles it with this lingage setup.I had a spring on it which I can't find.Any ideas about what this spring does or how I can purchase one.
Carrier Infinity Condensor and Evaporator Coil Match Question
Hi,
I am hoping to have my entire HVAC system replaced with the following:
Carrier Infinity 58CVA090 [80% AFUE] and 59TN6A100 [96% AFUE] Furnaces...
Heat not working but AC does
Carrier heat pump. Outside unit does not come on with heat but AC works just fine. Having to use E-heat. Since the outside unit is working fine I'm thinking thermostat. Is there anything else that would keep it from working on heat?
Thanks
Heat not working but AC does
Carrier heat pump. Outside unit does not come on with heat but AC works just fine. Having to use E-heat. Since the outside unit is working fine I'm thinking thermostat. Is there anything else that would keep it from working on heat?
Thanks
Carrier Infinity Condensor and Evaporator Coil Match Question
Hi,
I am hoping to have my entire HVAC system replaced with the following:
Carrier Infinity 58CVA090 [80% AFUE] and 59TN6A100 [96% AFUE] Furnaces...
24v Photocell Installation
I'm embarrassed to be asking this, because this thing seems to be simple as can be. I'm helping my sister replace a photocell that she had in an outdoor post light. I figured out the problem she was having as she tried using a 120v universal photocell switch. I went out and got a proper 24v unit. This is the first time I've ever used a 24v switch and I'm confused as to why it only has two wires vs three that the 120v uses. How should this be wired?
33ZC Factory Reset
I have a VAV fan terminal zone controller I'm playing with at home and out of all the manuals I have, I cannot find what two terminals I jumper to...
33ZC Factory Reset
I have a VAV fan terminal zone controller I'm playing with at home and out of all the manuals I have, I cannot find what two terminals I jumper to...
24v Photocell Installation
I'm embarrassed to be asking this, because this thing seems to be simple as can be. I'm helping my sister replace a photocell that she had in an outdoor post light. I figured out the problem she was having as she tried using a 120v universal photocell switch. I went out and got a proper 24v unit. This is the first time I've ever used a 24v switch and I'm confused as to why it only has two wires vs three that the 120v uses. How should this be wired?
reem 2 burner
my 2 burner reem inducer blower is movin the hole plate it moves up down side ways ( im a 50yr old women ) what do i DOOOOOOOOOOO!!!
Arizona jobs
Has anyone heard of United Dairymen of Arizona? I have a lead for a job with them. Company I'm working for now just cut hrs. To 32 a week. what a...
Arizona jobs
Has anyone heard of United Dairymen of Arizona? I have a lead for a job with them. Company I'm working for now just cut hrs. To 32 a week. what a...
reem 2 burner
my 2 burner reem inducer blower is movin the hole plate it moves up down side ways ( im a 50yr old women ) what do i DOOOOOOOOOOO!!!
American government. sposda be
You're not supposed to be sitting around worrying about who the President is going to be.
You're job as an American citizen is to work toward...
Weed Control With Newspapers
I've read in this forum and other sites about using newspaper as weed control and I plan on doing that next year in my garden. One question though, is it OK to use the color ads/flyers that are inserted in the paper or should I just use the newsprint sections of the paper.
Weed Control With Newspapers
I've read in this forum and other sites about using newspaper as weed control and I plan on doing that next year in my garden. One question though, is it OK to use the color ads/flyers that are inserted in the paper or should I just use the newsprint sections of the paper.
American government. sposda be
You're not supposed to be sitting around worrying about who the President is going to be.
You're job as an American citizen is to work toward...
Saturday, October 25, 2014
Old Allanson Transformer Replacement
Having trouble finding a replacement transformer for an old Cat#421 Type #429 Allanson transformer. Anyone know of a suitable replacement??? Thanks!!
installing laminate flooring on particle Board
Hello all,
I've just removed all carpeting in my double wide mobile home and the sub floor is crappie particle board. I would like to install Pergo flooring in all rooms except the kitchen and bath total sq. ft. is @1700. My concerns are the gap where the home is joined is about a 1/2 in wide in areas, also where the particle board edges butt up to each other some aren't level by about an 1/8 inch. What are my best options?
installing laminate flooring on particle Board
Hello all,
I've just removed all carpeting in my double wide mobile home and the sub floor is crappie particle board. I would like to install Pergo flooring in all rooms except the kitchen and bath total sq. ft. is @1700. My concerns are the gap where the home is joined is about a 1/2 in wide in areas, also where the particle board edges butt up to each other some aren't level by about an 1/8 inch. What are my best options?
Old Allanson Transformer Replacement
Having trouble finding a replacement transformer for an old Cat#421 Type #429 Allanson transformer. Anyone know of a suitable replacement??? Thanks!!
Applying wallpaper for the first time
The amateur who was supposed to do soundproofing applied exterior oil based white paint to one side of my room's wall. There are also several large bumps remaining even though he supposedly sanded them (with sandpaper) It's the worst thing I've seen.
Long story short, I just want to get rid of the hideous sight and basically cover it with a wallpaper all around. The glossy paint was done only on one side.
This is going to be my first time so I was wondering what kind of adhesive I am supposed to purchase. The wallpaper I will be using is a 'fashion strippable, fabric backed vinyl wallcovering'. In the directions it's says use a 'super prime' but doesn't say what kind (brand) so I would appreciate it if anyone can help me what I should actually buy.
And of course for the wallpaper to be effective, the glossy paint needs to be removed as well?
Free Heating
My better half has one of those home improvement shows on the boob tube. Ironically, as I am doing a home improvement project myself. Anyway, they...
Free Heating
My better half has one of those home improvement shows on the boob tube. Ironically, as I am doing a home improvement project myself. Anyway, they...
Applying wallpaper for the first time
The amateur who was supposed to do soundproofing applied exterior oil based white paint to one side of my room's wall. There are also several large bumps remaining even though he supposedly sanded them (with sandpaper) It's the worst thing I've seen.
Long story short, I just want to get rid of the hideous sight and basically cover it with a wallpaper all around. The glossy paint was done only on one side.
This is going to be my first time so I was wondering what kind of adhesive I am supposed to purchase. The wallpaper I will be using is a 'fashion strippable, fabric backed vinyl wallcovering'. In the directions it's says use a 'super prime' but doesn't say what kind (brand) so I would appreciate it if anyone can help me what I should actually buy.
And of course for the wallpaper to be effective, the glossy paint needs to be removed as well?
splice one wire slightly longer
Found a splice where 3 wires meet. One wire is slightly longer than the others but only by 3mm or so.
Easy solution is to trim it but I was just wondering if there are any dangers in having a wire like this in a wire nut with others? Is there any arc danger or will the electricity always just go through the easiets path at the join of the other wires in the splice nut?
someone has the sniffles
IT'S EBOLA, WE'RE ALL GOING TO DIE!!!! THE PLANET IS DOOMED, RUN FOR YOUR LIVES!!! :eek2::eek2::eek2:
Dear Media, STFU :beat:
Thank you
someone has the sniffles
IT'S EBOLA, WE'RE ALL GOING TO DIE!!!! THE PLANET IS DOOMED, RUN FOR YOUR LIVES!!! :eek2::eek2::eek2:
Dear Media, STFU :beat:
Thank you
splice one wire slightly longer
Found a splice where 3 wires meet. One wire is slightly longer than the others but only by 3mm or so.
Easy solution is to trim it but I was just wondering if there are any dangers in having a wire like this in a wire nut with others? Is there any arc danger or will the electricity always just go through the easiets path at the join of the other wires in the splice nut?
Continental Drawer Units
Has anyone else out there had many problems with Continental drawers failing? I took on CSR for them about a rear back and we get about 3 calls a...
Tuning the temperature rise on a gas furnace
Hello.
I recently had someone come out to give me a quote on a replacement furnace. He told me that my present furnace was WAY oversized for my house.
I presently have a two stage 90-140KBTU furnace installed. He said he would put in a 90KBTU and back it off to an 80KBTU.
This got me to thinking so I decided to decrease the gas supply to my furnace by slightly turning the gas valve on the pipe feeding the furnace. Now I want to know this: What is the tradeoff in a high temperature rise versus a low temperature rise? Is one more efficient? Is one more comfortable?
I have backed my fan speed down to the lowest settings and REALLY like how much quieter the unit is now too.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Tuning the temperature rise on a gas furnace
Hello.
I recently had someone come out to give me a quote on a replacement furnace. He told me that my present furnace was WAY oversized for my house.
I presently have a two stage 90-140KBTU furnace installed. He said he would put in a 90KBTU and back it off to an 80KBTU.
This got me to thinking so I decided to decrease the gas supply to my furnace by slightly turning the gas valve on the pipe feeding the furnace. Now I want to know this: What is the tradeoff in a high temperature rise versus a low temperature rise? Is one more efficient? Is one more comfortable?
I have backed my fan speed down to the lowest settings and REALLY like how much quieter the unit is now too.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Continental Drawer Units
Has anyone else out there had many problems with Continental drawers failing? I took on CSR for them about a rear back and we get about 3 calls a...
Friday, October 24, 2014
Mitsubishi mini split heat pump
I have a brand new Mitsubishi mini split 3 zone AC/heat pump. It worked great all summer with AC. Kept the temperature to exactly what is was set to....
Mitsubishi mini split heat pump
I have a brand new Mitsubishi mini split 3 zone AC/heat pump. It worked great all summer with AC. Kept the temperature to exactly what is was set to....
Application Failed to Install
Finally my Vmware player is working fine and I have installed on it XPPro which works fine and PCLinux Fullmonty.08.2014 which I try to learn
On XPPro I tried to install 2 system utilities (Ultimate windows tweaker and WinBubbles) and in either when I click the .exe I get The application failed to install 0xc0000135. I have nothing else installed on this OS and I wonder why I get this message
Application Failed to Install
Finally my Vmware player is working fine and I have installed on it XPPro which works fine and PCLinux Fullmonty.08.2014 which I try to learn
On XPPro I tried to install 2 system utilities (Ultimate windows tweaker and WinBubbles) and in either when I click the .exe I get The application failed to install 0xc0000135. I have nothing else installed on this OS and I wonder why I get this message
Samsung refrigerator.
I'm not 100% sure this is the right place for this thread but I'm working on a problem that my neighbor has with his Samsung rb195acpn. I do...
Rotted rim joist behind deck
Hello everyone. I've got an issue I need help fixing. Apologies in advance for the wall of text.
When going to replace some siding I discovered that roughly 10ft of rim joist between my deck and the house is fairly rotted and needs to be replaced. The joists inside the house it is attached to are fine. It's just the rim joist that's rotted. It seems that whoever installed the deck years ago did not put any sort of flashing between the house and the deck. While this area isn't totally exposed to the elements it seems as if enough water has penetrated over the years to cause rot. The deck is supported on the far end by 4x4s and has a ledger board on the house side that is bolted to the rim joist. The deck joists are totally separate from the house joists and are not sistered. After discovering the rot I added a beam and 2 4x4 posts on the house side of the deck to support the deck.
The house is a cantilevered design where the upper floor sticks out over the basement by 2ft and the bottoms of the joists are covered by a thin sheet of plywood on the outside. So I have easy access to the affected area from below.
How can I go about fixing this?
Obviously the best fix would be to remove the deck entirely, support everything, replace the rim joist, then rebuild. The only problem is that I don't have that sort of cash or time and the deck itself is in decent condition with no rot. Is there any way of repairing the rim joist so that everything is safe without removing the deck? Since I can access the bottom of the joists from outside is there anything that can be done from below to take care of the joist?
Rotted rim joist behind deck
Hello everyone. I've got an issue I need help fixing. Apologies in advance for the wall of text.
When going to replace some siding I discovered that roughly 10ft of rim joist between my deck and the house is fairly rotted and needs to be replaced. The joists inside the house it is attached to are fine. It's just the rim joist that's rotted. It seems that whoever installed the deck years ago did not put any sort of flashing between the house and the deck. While this area isn't totally exposed to the elements it seems as if enough water has penetrated over the years to cause rot. The deck is supported on the far end by 4x4s and has a ledger board on the house side that is bolted to the rim joist. The deck joists are totally separate from the house joists and are not sistered. After discovering the rot I added a beam and 2 4x4 posts on the house side of the deck to support the deck.
The house is a cantilevered design where the upper floor sticks out over the basement by 2ft and the bottoms of the joists are covered by a thin sheet of plywood on the outside. So I have easy access to the affected area from below.
How can I go about fixing this?
Obviously the best fix would be to remove the deck entirely, support everything, replace the rim joist, then rebuild. The only problem is that I don't have that sort of cash or time and the deck itself is in decent condition with no rot. Is there any way of repairing the rim joist so that everything is safe without removing the deck? Since I can access the bottom of the joists from outside is there anything that can be done from below to take care of the joist?
Samsung refrigerator.
I'm not 100% sure this is the right place for this thread but I'm working on a problem that my neighbor has with his Samsung rb195acpn. I do...
Heat Pump help
Hi: trying to learn some trouble shooting. Have a plumber friend with a 4 month old Concord outside unit. He had installed & reused Goodman air...
Acceptable Generator Wiring?
I hope I didn't get too creative here.
Is it acceptable to wire 2x20A outlets off a 30A inlet? Thinking being that the 30A twist lock on my generator is not protected by a 30A breaker but rather a pair of 20A breakers. The two outlets would share a neutral and use 12/3.
Andover bcx1 communication problem
Hi,
I am having communication problem from Cyberstation to bcx1 controller. I am able to ping the controller's IP address but not able to get the...
Understanding Voltage Drop with Resistances.
Hi, I just started a course (Basic Electricity) and I was wondering if you could help!
DC = 60 V
R1 = 6.8 k ohms (in series)
R2 = 12 k ohms R3 = 6.2 k ohms R4 = 12k ohms (in parallel)
Note: R1 in series and the rest in parallel (R2, R3, R4).
1/R t = 6.2/74.4 + 12/74.4 + 6.2/74.4 = 24.4/74.4
R t = 1 / (24.4/74.4) = 1/0.327957 = 3.049 Ohms
Understanding Voltage Drop with Resistances.
Hi, I just started a course (Basic Electricity) and I was wondering if you could help!
DC = 60 V
R1 = 6.8 k ohms (in series)
R2 = 12 k ohms R3 = 6.2 k ohms R4 = 12k ohms (in parallel)
Note: R1 in series and the rest in parallel (R2, R3, R4).
1/R t = 6.2/74.4 + 12/74.4 + 6.2/74.4 = 24.4/74.4
R t = 1 / (24.4/74.4) = 1/0.327957 = 3.049 Ohms
Andover bcx1 communication problem
Hi,
I am having communication problem from Cyberstation to bcx1 controller. I am able to ping the controller's IP address but not able to get the...
Compressor draws 45 Amps current
Dear friends, I would like to ask a question about a damage that I have on my heating/cooling system. I am no expert so I will try to describe the...
10 Stylishly Spooky Ways to Get Your Home into the Halloween Spirit
Working with threaded fittings
Can anyone share any tips and tricks for working with threaded fittings? Household sizes, like 1/2 and 3/4.
One thing that comes immediately to mind is backing up on a pipe for its final position. Say you tighten a valve too far and the handle is out of alignment. Is it best to take the entire thing off and start again or is loosening appropriate to find the final position?
How many threads should be sign on a properly torqued fitting for the different sizes? Is there a standard with NPT?
What about wrench sizes?
anything and everything you can think of to make this easier for me would be much appreciated.
Working with threaded fittings
Can anyone share any tips and tricks for working with threaded fittings? Household sizes, like 1/2 and 3/4.
One thing that comes immediately to mind is backing up on a pipe for its final position. Say you tighten a valve too far and the handle is out of alignment. Is it best to take the entire thing off and start again or is loosening appropriate to find the final position?
How many threads should be sign on a properly torqued fitting for the different sizes? Is there a standard with NPT?
What about wrench sizes?
anything and everything you can think of to make this easier for me would be much appreciated.
10 Stylishly Spooky Ways to Get Your Home into the Halloween Spirit
Compressor draws 45 Amps current
Dear friends, I would like to ask a question about a damage that I have on my heating/cooling system. I am no expert so I will try to describe the...
Thursday, October 23, 2014
Help! Neighbor's Hvac giving off chemical smell
With the colder weather, I would be expecting people to run their heat more. One person at the apartment I live in runs theirs 24/7.
For the past...
Impossible furnace room ceiling?
Hey there,
my basement is finished except for the furnace room - the ducts and piping create what looks like an impossible drywall job (see the pictures). My reason for covering it is to reduce sound transmission to upstairs, as well as the adjacent rooms in the basement. It's not just the furnace noise that travels upstairs, but any noise from the surround areas in the basement comes through upstairs in the area above the exposed ceiling.
The only thing I think of is to use fire retardant roxul batting between the joists and then wrap some layer under the batting to prevent fibres from spreading into the air. Manipulating the wrap under/around the ducting would be difficult but not impossible like drywalling looks to be.
Is this doable, are there any better solutions. Looking for some answers.
Thanks.Attachment 40595 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=40595)Attachment 40596 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=40596)Attachment 40597 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=40597)Attachment 40598 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=40598)Attachment 40599 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/walls-ceilings/40599-impossible-furnace-room-ceiling-photo-1.jpg)Attachment 40600 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=40600)Attachment 40601 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=40601)Attachment 40602 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/walls-ceilings/40602-impossible-furnace-room-ceiling-photo-2-1.jpg)Attachment 40603 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/walls-ceilings/40603-impossible-furnace-room-ceiling-photo-5.jpg)
Impossible furnace room ceiling?
Hey there,
my basement is finished except for the furnace room - the ducts and piping create what looks like an impossible drywall job (see the pictures). My reason for covering it is to reduce sound transmission to upstairs, as well as the adjacent rooms in the basement. It's not just the furnace noise that travels upstairs, but any noise from the surround areas in the basement comes through upstairs in the area above the exposed ceiling.
The only thing I think of is to use fire retardant roxul batting between the joists and then wrap some layer under the batting to prevent fibres from spreading into the air. Manipulating the wrap under/around the ducting would be difficult but not impossible like drywalling looks to be.
Is this doable, are there any better solutions. Looking for some answers.
Thanks.Attachment 40595 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=40595)Attachment 40596 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=40596)Attachment 40597 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=40597)Attachment 40598 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=40598)Attachment 40599 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/walls-ceilings/40599-impossible-furnace-room-ceiling-photo-1.jpg)Attachment 40600 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=40600)Attachment 40601 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=40601)Attachment 40602 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/walls-ceilings/40602-impossible-furnace-room-ceiling-photo-2-1.jpg)Attachment 40603 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/walls-ceilings/40603-impossible-furnace-room-ceiling-photo-5.jpg)
Help! Neighbor's Hvac giving off chemical smell
With the colder weather, I would be expecting people to run their heat more. One person at the apartment I live in runs theirs 24/7.
For the past...
Echo backpack leaf blower pb-300e
I have the above leaf blower and was looking to use. First start of the year took a little bit but got it started and let it warm up. When I went to use it, it fired right up and ran like a champ for a while then petered out. Would not restart while warm. After a few hours it restarted, ran for a few minutes then died again. Started and died one more time, now won't start. I've put fresh mix in it, new spark plug, even tried a little starter fluid in the spark plug hole(I know it's not ideal, but was trying to see if it would work). I jumped the kill switch with a few alligator clips and wire, but to no avail. I tried to test the spark plug but did not seem to spark(was doing it in the dark, and my connection from plug to engine using a bridge might not of been sufficient)
When taking the spark plug out, the piston moves freely, and smells like it is getting gas. No odd noises or scraping sounds.
Ideas?
Love them phoneline installers
Image: http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y417/jnewton87/Mobile%20Uploads/20141023_103623_zpsok5cacv_edit_1414108070312_zpsie4nhokt.jpg
Love them phoneline installers
Image: http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y417/jnewton87/Mobile%20Uploads/20141023_103623_zpsok5cacv_edit_1414108070312_zpsie4nhokt.jpg
Echo backpack leaf blower pb-300e
I have the above leaf blower and was looking to use. First start of the year took a little bit but got it started and let it warm up. When I went to use it, it fired right up and ran like a champ for a while then petered out. Would not restart while warm. After a few hours it restarted, ran for a few minutes then died again. Started and died one more time, now won't start. I've put fresh mix in it, new spark plug, even tried a little starter fluid in the spark plug hole(I know it's not ideal, but was trying to see if it would work). I jumped the kill switch with a few alligator clips and wire, but to no avail. I tried to test the spark plug but did not seem to spark(was doing it in the dark, and my connection from plug to engine using a bridge might not of been sufficient)
When taking the spark plug out, the piston moves freely, and smells like it is getting gas. No odd noises or scraping sounds.
Ideas?
Can I lay laminate over tile?
I'm getting some quotes for laminate flooring. One estimator told me he can lay the laminate over some tile I have and that the underlaying would compensate for the uneven areas where the grout is. A different estimator told me they would have to flatten the area with cement before laying the laminate. Who is right?
The tile looks like this:
Image: http://www.historicalbricks.com/_uploads/37_chicago_1.jpg
Danfoss Calls for Holistic Approach to Energy
John Galyen, president, Danfoss North America, addressed energy productivity at the Alliance to Save Energy "Energy 2030 On the Road" in New York...
Danfoss Calls for Holistic Approach to Energy
John Galyen, president, Danfoss North America, addressed energy productivity at the Alliance to Save Energy "Energy 2030 On the Road" in New York...
Can I lay laminate over tile?
I'm getting some quotes for laminate flooring. One estimator told me he can lay the laminate over some tile I have and that the underlaying would compensate for the uneven areas where the grout is. A different estimator told me they would have to flatten the area with cement before laying the laminate. Who is right?
The tile looks like this:
Image: http://www.historicalbricks.com/_uploads/37_chicago_1.jpg
EXCEL5000 error
Good Morning.
I was in a computer system of XBS honeywell.
the computer damaged the HD and I can not recover the data ...
downloaded the XBS...
Heat pump not heating
Hi everyone, cooler weather is here and what do you know? I have no heat. Replaced coils and contactor switch earlier in summer for ac (has been working fine), went to turn heat on this morning and nothing. Ac works fine but keeps popping the 3amp fuse on the heat side. Any help would be appreciated.
Heat pump not heating
Hi everyone, cooler weather is here and what do you know? I have no heat. Replaced coils and contactor switch earlier in summer for ac (has been working fine), went to turn heat on this morning and nothing. Ac works fine but keeps popping the 3amp fuse on the heat side. Any help would be appreciated.
EXCEL5000 error
Good Morning.
I was in a computer system of XBS honeywell.
the computer damaged the HD and I can not recover the data ...
downloaded the XBS...
concrete/pool deck paint florida
looking to paint my concrete pool deck and driveway.
any suggestions on the type of paint/stain to use, this is for a florida home.
reviews online for most of the items and lowes/HD are not the best and really don't want to invest a ton of money to have it fade/chip away in a few months.
thanks in advance
Platform error code for Jace 230
Hello Guys, last day one of the my Jace 230 which I installed on site crashed. This site was running for the last 2 years and suddenly now it cant...
Platform error code for Jace 230
Hello Guys, last day one of the my Jace 230 which I installed on site crashed. This site was running for the last 2 years and suddenly now it cant...
Wednesday, October 22, 2014
old briggs engine, carb inquiry
I acquired an old early 60's era W.S. Darley Company pump which is powered by a Briggs and Stratton model 23AFB engine. This piece of equipment has been sitting neglected for a long long time but apparently wasn't "all that long ago" when it did in fact operate okay. I'm gradually looking it over, checking things out, seeing what I might do to clean it up and hopefully get it running. Here's a picture of it sitting on the work table where I've been looking it over, with a few components removed, including the carb. The next picture is of the carb itself. I have the specific engine info, the type, the serial number, etc. But the carb itself doesn't seem to have any label or stamp indicating its make; but I assume its a Briggs and Stratton but don't know for sure. I'm in the process of gathering/researching anything about the pump and engine (and carb) I can find out. I'm thinking doing some disassembly of the carb next, just to check out the inside condition to the extent I might be able to. Before I do that though, I'd like t at least get a clue on what make of carb this is, what model, etc so I could look into the possibility of acquiring parts for it if necessary. Anybody here seen a carb like this before, maybe help me with identification? Thanks.
Image: http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb153/sgull1/IMG_2690_zpsec1cb625.jpg (http://s207.photobucket.com/user/sgull1/media/IMG_2690_zpsec1cb625.jpg.html)
Image: http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb153/sgull1/IMG_2691_zps165c5711.jpg (http://s207.photobucket.com/user/sgull1/media/IMG_2691_zps165c5711.jpg.html)
UV-C 24 Volt units for PTEC
New to forum, need help finding these for multiple units to address a current mold problem., Need source and wanted to know anyone else's experience...
UV-C 24 Volt units for PTEC
New to forum, need help finding these for multiple units to address a current mold problem., Need source and wanted to know anyone else's experience...
old briggs engine, carb inquiry
I acquired an old early 60's era W.S. Darley Company pump which is powered by a Briggs and Stratton model 23AFB engine. This piece of equipment has been sitting neglected for a long long time but apparently wasn't "all that long ago" when it did in fact operate okay. I'm gradually looking it over, checking things out, seeing what I might do to clean it up and hopefully get it running. Here's a picture of it sitting on the work table where I've been looking it over, with a few components removed, including the carb. The next picture is of the carb itself. I have the specific engine info, the type, the serial number, etc. But the carb itself doesn't seem to have any label or stamp indicating its make; but I assume its a Briggs and Stratton but don't know for sure. I'm in the process of gathering/researching anything about the pump and engine (and carb) I can find out. I'm thinking doing some disassembly of the carb next, just to check out the inside condition to the extent I might be able to. Before I do that though, I'd like t at least get a clue on what make of carb this is, what model, etc so I could look into the possibility of acquiring parts for it if necessary. Anybody here seen a carb like this before, maybe help me with identification? Thanks.
Image: http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb153/sgull1/IMG_2690_zpsec1cb625.jpg (http://s207.photobucket.com/user/sgull1/media/IMG_2690_zpsec1cb625.jpg.html)
Image: http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb153/sgull1/IMG_2691_zps165c5711.jpg (http://s207.photobucket.com/user/sgull1/media/IMG_2691_zps165c5711.jpg.html)
Chime Not Working on Vista 20P
I believe I have the Vista 20P, and recently bought a new battery. When I installed the battery, I crossed the red and black and it sparked and I noticed once I got it corrected, my keypad LCD was messed up and there was no chime when opening doors anymore.
So, I bought a new 6162RF to replace my old pad from 2007, got it installed and still no chime. I worked my way through getting the installer code figured out and being able to clear a trouble code by disabling it, and also got my low bat message cleared, but still no chime.
Today I messed with is some more. I tried installer code+9 and it toggled it off. I hit installer code again+9 and toggled it on, and it doesn't beep when opening doors.
I tried going into installer code + *26 + 0 and it beeped and showed "00". Exited and tried the door and still no chime.
When the door is open, the pad shows the zone fault just fine, it just doesn't chime.
Would anyone have any step by step actions I can take to try and get this working or do you think I shorted something out in the board that works the chime when I crossed the battery leads?
Thanks!
Thoughts on this school?
Hello everyone...new guy here looking at starting a career in HVAC. The school I am looking into is called the electrical training center on Long...
Thoughts on this school?
Hello everyone...new guy here looking at starting a career in HVAC. The school I am looking into is called the electrical training center on Long...
Chime Not Working on Vista 20P
I believe I have the Vista 20P, and recently bought a new battery. When I installed the battery, I crossed the red and black and it sparked and I noticed once I got it corrected, my keypad LCD was messed up and there was no chime when opening doors anymore.
So, I bought a new 6162RF to replace my old pad from 2007, got it installed and still no chime. I worked my way through getting the installer code figured out and being able to clear a trouble code by disabling it, and also got my low bat message cleared, but still no chime.
Today I messed with is some more. I tried installer code+9 and it toggled it off. I hit installer code again+9 and toggled it on, and it doesn't beep when opening doors.
I tried going into installer code + *26 + 0 and it beeped and showed "00". Exited and tried the door and still no chime.
When the door is open, the pad shows the zone fault just fine, it just doesn't chime.
Would anyone have any step by step actions I can take to try and get this working or do you think I shorted something out in the board that works the chime when I crossed the battery leads?
Thanks!
New tool bag gadget The MagRing
New gadget for your tool bag. Introducing MagRing (http://www.magbench.com/tool/magring/page88.html), the magnetic mounting ring. MagRing attaches...
Need Help Selecting a Dimmer Switch for a Low Voltage Magnetic Transformer
Hi Everyone,
I need some help choosing the correct dimmer for a lighting fixture in my home, which is connected to a low voltage magnetic transformer. I live in Canada. I have provided all the information I know about the electrical system.
Fixture Information:
- 9 bulbs, each is 20W and 12V
- MR16 halogen bulbs
- Made in Italy by Solzi Luc
Transformer Information:
Can I Install 2 Fantech FR225 on the same vent line....one on each end?
I need to vent 3 laser engravers and I have 2 Fantech FR225 installed. Can I have both
fans attached to the same vent line, exhausting at the same...
Ferroli Domina F24E boiler, stops (block) after couple of seconds...
Hi everyone and thanks for any input in advance.
I have a Ferroli Domina F24E boiler that stops (block) after couple of seconds...
I didn't open the combustion chamber because I don't know whether it is safe or not but from its cover's small window I can see a blue flame before the block.
In the manual there is written to check the following:
1) gas input
I have seen the flame so I guess it is OK
HVAC TECH Tech Wanted
All,
I am currently looking for a Technical Service Advisor. I am willing to travel to conduce interviews but the candidate must be willing to...
Protect Yourself with a CO Detector
Carbon monoxide is called the “silent killer” because you can’t see, smell or taste it. And it is deadly! Carbon monoxide is the leading cause of accidental poisoning deaths in North America. Each year it proves fatal for hundreds of Canadians, and, makes more than one thousand Canadians sick with varying flu-like symptoms. According to a recent national Home Safety Poll: 60% of Canadians DO NOT have a CO alarm 15% believe CO alarms LAST FOREVER 18% believe CO alarms are only needed if you have a GAS FURNACE 44% DO NOT have their heating or other combustion systems checked annually 26% DO NOT think they have to replace CO alarms every 5-10 years We need to change these statistics! Education is the key. Appliances that use gas, oil, wood, coal or any other kind of fossil fuel produce carbon monoxide during combustion. Sources in your home can include your furnace, water heater, wood stove, fireplace, oven and of course automotive exhaust. Normally these appliances are vented outside, but if there is a leak or poor installation, tragedy looms. Your ONLY protection is a CSA-approved carbon monoxide alarm. And remember… exposure to carbon monoxide reduces your ability to think clearly, so never delay if your CO alarm goes off or you sense there’s a problem. Get everyone out of the house and stay out, then call the fire department or 911. Find out how you can get a FREE Carbon Monoxide Detector, Click Here!
DIY Carved Pumpkin Planters Tutorial
Bright Common Used On Sill Plate
Neighbor had some sill plate replacement done where the top plate was replaced with pressure treated in sections. Bright common 16D nails were used to attach the new top plate to the already existing bottom plate. The job is still exposed. Should my neighbor have the contractor pull the top plate and re-apply a new one using hot-dipped galvanized or stainless fasteners? Or should he just have them add more nails with either of the above mentioned materials should the common nails corrode? We are wondering about the corrosion possibilities of the bright common nails in the top sill plate. Although they will not be exposed to moisture, there is obviously chemicals in the wood. If the nails corrode, which they most likely will over time, what type of damage will the corrosion cause to the wood?
Your CO alarm is beeping. Now what?
Today, most people know about the dangers of carbon monoxide, and why it’s so important to have a CO alarm in your house. But many of us aren’t clear on what to do if that alarm does go off. Continue reading →
WHG & Mouldoff NFL Pick’em pool is back for 2014/2015!
The WHG & Mouldoff NFL Pick’em pool is back for another year. Just pick the winners of the games each week and if you’re the best forecaster, you win a pair of premium Toronto Maple Leafs tickets. Entry is FREE to you and anyone you know. All are welcome. There is also a $25 Tim […]
Friday, October 17, 2014
fiberglass roll insulation question
I have just rolled out a 6.25" thick roll of insulation between two 2X6 ceiling joists.
Now the joists are actually 5.5" due to actual lumber measurements, but I was also shocked to see my 6.25" thick insulation still fall short of the actual lumber dimensions and not measure up to the top of the joists.
I thought the 6.25" thick insulation would stick a little proud of the top of the joists. Any advice?
Thanks.
fiberglass roll insulation question
I have just rolled out a 6.25" thick roll of insulation between two 2X6 ceiling joists.
Now the joists are actually 5.5" due to actual lumber measurements, but I was also shocked to see my 6.25" thick insulation still fall short of the actual lumber dimensions and not measure up to the top of the joists.
I thought the 6.25" thick insulation would stick a little proud of the top of the joists. Any advice?
Thanks.
weil mclain lgb-7
This boiler is giving me issues. Two gas valves, secondary and main. Two modules pilot proving and main flame proving. 12 burners in total only 6...
black colored plumbers putty?
I have putty outside my house that looks like plumbers putty, and it is colored black. This was used for the pipes sticking out of my house, to seal around the pipe and siding. Where can I find this black colored putty?
Thanks,
Looking for hvac tech Baltimore glen burnie area
Looking for a helper/mechanic. email resume and tell me about your self. im looking for someone that can run light service and knows how to install....
Carrier UCXP controller
got a ucxp controller that I dumped a program into and I did not like how it worked so I want to flush the controller and start over again but for...
Won't light-Burnham gas boiler Series 2 (model B)
First time putting heat on and noticed that the pilot wasn't lit. Followed instructions-...."hold reset button for about one minutes after the pilot is lit..." It didn't remain lit.
It said if the light goes out, to repeat all the steps. My son "didn't want to mess with it" so he didn't repeat all the steps.
The boiler is 19 years old-was told that the average life is 30 years.
Thanks!
Karen
Very confusing labeling
Hi, I have a GE dual-element electric water heater that is no longer heating water. After turning off the power, I removed the access panels to check the resistance of the heating elements. One reads about 10 ohms and the other is open. I'm going to replace both, but I also want to ensure that it's wired correctly. The manual (which covers a range of exact models) contains a table for wire size and breaker amperage based on watts. But I find the label on the heater confusing:
Volts 240/208
Wattage:
Upper 4500/3800
Lower 4500/3800
Total 4500/3800 <---- huh?
How can the unit have two 4500 watt elements and have a total wattage of 4500 watts? What am I missing?
General Click Lock Install Questions
Can I post questions here to get general info on a click lock install I'm doing?
Utica MGB150HID ZERO pressure
Okay, So this is my first cold season in my new house. I took a wall out and removed a baseboard register and replaced it with a straight pipe in the basement.
So I'm certain there was air in the system.
Yesterday while in the lower level (quad level house) i heard the registers gurgling. A google search turned up a video on how to bleed the system. I put a short hose where the yellow arrow points into a bucket with a little water so i could see the air coming out, and closed the valve leading back into the boiler red arrow
Image: http://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq138/mattb-84/IMG_20141013_213312arrows974.jpg
the result was about two gallons of water and some bubbles.
Image: http://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq138/mattb-84/IMG_20141013_213248531.jpg
Dehumidifier for pool room help
Hello all :)
Working on a quote for a new system for a customers pool room. Be our first pool design, appreciate any help. Supplier quoted us a...
Smell in basement
Hello everyone, I have a finished basement, over a year ago it flooded and a professional mitigation company removed the carpet, pad and some dry wall, fans and dehumidifiers were left to dry out the room. Over a course of a year I laid tile floor, fixed the drywall and finished the room up and there really wasn't a smell.
My dog decided to use the room as a bathroom, we got the problem under control now. but now there is a nasty smell that is lingering. I have been dealing with this for a few months now. I have tried bleach, baking soda, vinegar, soap, natures miracle, and natures miracle advanced formula and nothing will remove the smell. I have cleaned all the spots numerous times that he had peed and pooped on, but there is still this nasty smell in the air. If you go in the adjoining room, you really don't smell it so it is defiantly coming from the main room. Any thoughts?
Sheet metal fitting terminology
What's the difference between a drop cheek elbow, and a tucked cheek elbow? Is it the hard brake? Which is which? Are they the same? Interchangeable...
Old Double Hung Window Weight Pocket Inaccessible From Inside
Hi Guys,
Just getting started on this 1923 renovation and as I pulled the windows apart to start restoring, I notice that the plaster covers the weight pockets on either end of the multiple window bay. Now, I suppose I could get into there by prying off the trim on the outside, but I'd much rather have these be accessible from the inside in the future. Is there any problem anyone can foresee to me just cutting a hole in the plaster (which is covered by the side casing) so I can get to the weights from the inside? Photo attached.
Image: https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3953/15508403026_4af7351766_c.jpg
Applications Engineer Needed - Woburn, MA
BCM Controls Corporation designs, installs and services integrated security and building automation systems in the greater Boston area. Due to their...
Need som advice on sprucing up my balcony
I currently have a table and some chairs on my balcony, but not much else. Any thoughts as to plants or other decor items I could place out there?
Here's a quick pic:http://imgur.com/FHBnllK
Installing wall outlet in an old junction box
I had a wall receptacle in the house (60s) sticking out of the drywall, not flush with the surface, and wires on top visible (handywork of previous owners), with burn marks.
I took it off, capped the wires, removed some drywall and discovered a box (please see picture). I thought of installing a new outlet, but having second thoughts now. Some questions,
(1) what does the code say about installing outlets on top of such boxes, is that still allowed
(2) wires are very thick, probably 12 gauge, and there is a lot of them crammed in there. An extra outlet would make things even more crowded, and I expect I would have to apply force to push in there. Not sure I should do that. I suspect an outlet here was an afterthought rather than an original design.
(3) and the last unfortunate observation, the surface of the box is not flush with the drywall (at least 8mm deep).
R-22 for sale 250 lbs
I have 2 R-22 cylinders for sale. 125 lb each. Virgin. EPA certified so everything is legal. Make me an offer. In south alabama but willing to make a...
Steps to change installer code on Networx NX-4
Hi DIY'ers,
Apologies if this question has already been answered. I did do a search of the forums and couldn't find steps for achieving this.
I have a Networx NX-4 security system, of which I know the current installer code.
What I want to know is how to reset the installer code to something unique (As it is currently the factory default, meaning a serious vulnerability for undesired visitors)
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Many Thanks
stains on patio
Had concrete patio poured and while drying got a some water drops on it. Didn,t notice ,til next day when I noticed a few white spots where the drops fell. Is there any way of getting rid of these spots or just learn to live with them. Also is there any way of getting rid of stains from falling leaves. thanks, John
Homeowner: Heat Pump vs. A/C with Electric Furnace.
We have always had heat pumps, and in general, they have always been pretty reliable for us. However, we now are at the point where we need to...
GFI wiring upgrade
Hi All,
I have a house built in 1958. The wiring is 2 conductor without grounds. The panel is a modern circuit breaker type.
The kitchen wiring and the bathrooms have proper GFI outlets with 3 wire romex and are fed from a smaller utility panel that was recently added.
I have several outlets that have just plain worn out (the spring tension that holds the electrical plug contacts in place is low to non-existant). I can't find replacement 2 prong outlets, so I would like to change the mechanically marginal outlets to more modern 3 prong recepticals. I know I can legally do this IF I buy a modern GFI receptical and install it, with a sticker on the cover that indicates the outlet is a GFI protected 2 wire outlet with no ground.
However, I'd like to install a GFI circuit breaker in the panel instead of buying a bunch of GFI outlets (or tracing each circuit to find the first outlet on each circuit). But the wiring is not easily traced out, because all the wiring is in walls and the basement is a finished basement. Hence my interest in using a single GFCI in the entrance panel.
Current wasted or leakage?
I was measuring amps on an inducer motor. The amerage was a few milliamps lower on the neutral wire than the ungrounded wire and I thought that might be something like current being wasted if there is such a thing (similar to voltage drop) or maybe current leakage to ground?
In this case it was a motor that was rated at 2.3A. I was measuring about 2.0 on the black wire and about 1.9 on the neutral. Very miniscule, but it made me curious .
Funny/Amusing Stories About About Having A Weapon At Work?
Owning/carrying a gun is a serious matter, and I have the utmost respect for weapons and their power.
That said, there's been times where I've had...
Losing Pea Gravel from underneath small footer for greenhouse
We poured a small footer (9" wide and 4" deep) for a greenhouse to tie the bottom plates of the walls to. After removing the forms and in the process of all the pounding from the framing the pea gravel is falling out from under the concrete. Is this going to be a problem in the long run? If its not obvious, this is my first time doing something like this.
Bumper Sticker Idea
Around here been seeing these bumper stickers that say "Women For Obama". Even see some of those Obama Biden bumper stickers hanging around.
My...
Basement waterporoofing
Hello,
I have a problem with a wet basement in the recently purchased townhouse. I am considering installing an interior drainage system (drain tiles) to help with the problem. I have 2 exterior walls and 2 walls that are separating my basement from my neighbors. I would like to know if it is necessary to install drain tiles all around the perimeter of the basement or just on the exterior walls. I am suspecting that water is also seeping around the footing of the walls that are not in direct contact with the soil. Does anybody have experience with this kind of installation? Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
single stage (reliable) vs 2 stage system (maintenance) - which to buy?
From what I understand, single stage systems are cheaper but more reliable VS. 2 stage (two stage) systems which are more efficient, but tend to have...
Outlet for a garbage disposal
I am looking to replace my burnt out garbage disposal.
Right now it is hardwired with romex coming out of the cabinet going into the garbage disposal.
My new disposal is coming with a plug already attached so I wanted to keep it and install an outlet.
The town just goes by the national electrical codes nothing more.
What is the correct way I can put in an outlet down there?.
Best place to place a LLSV
I do Commercial refrigeration in So Cal, some of my stores have solenoid valves at rack and some at cases. Obviously at rack would be the smarter way...
jig / circular / table saw?
The immediate job is that I need to cut some 7 inch planks. They are about 8ft long, which might make using a table saw difficult and or dangerous.
What is the most versatile out of these tools?
I had originally thought a table saw would be best as it's good for future wood cutting use. They are also more expensive.
Carrier Draft Inducer for a 58MCB100 10120
How hard is it to replace? I have not replaced one on this model before. The instructions say to remove gas piping, burner box and manifold. They...
Furnace shuts down and will not restart...
Hello all!
I am having problems with my gas forced air furnace...
Model Number C9MPD100J14B1
Attachment 39995 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/gas-oil-home-heating-furnaces/39995-furnace-shuts-down-will-not-restart-img_2499.jpg)
Here is my problem... The furnace will start up and run for the whole cycle or just a minute or two... then shuts down and will not restart again until I open the front panel... turn it off... and go through the whole routine once again and now it has stopped even doing that...I am trying to solve the problem without the help of the furnace repair guy.
I know it is not the thermostat as I have just replaced it with a NEST and pulled brand new thermostat wiring. Also, to confirm... when disconnected from the thermostat, it would do the same thing with the jumper cable (not sure if that is the correct term).
The main gas valve is blinking a steady dim/bright sequence...
Where and how do you store your roll of copper in the van
I have my copper hanging
Makes a lot of noise
Need ideas on how
And where you guys store copper
HVAC New Product Update
Compiled by Terry McIver
Some interesting new products that have crossed our monitors recently. From residential to light commercial HVAC,...
Best way to restore part of a parquet floor
I have an old parquet bedroom floor that hasn't been touched, I guess in over 60 years when the house was built. Its in surprisingly good shape covered by a large area rug, but the entrance way and floor uncovered boarders are stained and worn with the finish gone. I was thinking of just doing the boarders and entrance way to an acceptable restoration since its always had an area rug and the covered floor is in great shape. I'm not overly concerned with a slight color match issue. I'd like any advice if this makes sense and how to go at it? Really not looking to make it into a big DIY project if I can avoid it. Thanks for the help.
fan speed question
Hi everyone,
I live in a house that is 830 square feet. The current furnace is from 1985. It was rated at 75,000 btu max and 80% efficiency. I...
burnham in4 natural gas will not ignite
Hello,
Just joined this forum, looks like some very helpful people with good info. Hope you can help me with my issue. Have a 10 yr old in4 that will not ignite this season and its getting cold.
thermostat calls for heat,, relay clicks, damper rotates 90 deg then stops then rotates another 90 degs. Then nothing. It is a intermittant spark type but I get no sparking to lite pilot. lwco seems to be working, drain down boiler until yellow light comes on the refill and light goes out. Flame roll out has continuity. Once the damper rolls final 90 degs I hear 3 clicks from micro switches on damper and have 24 at red wire that feeds the roll out and high limit on the stack then to gas valve. I understand that there are 3 steps that need to happen before it will attempt to lite.
Any ideas?
Liquid in discharge line
Have a question as to charging liquid refrigerant into the discharge line of a residential split system. Is it permissible, or should it be avoided....
No Oil Fed to Filter After Filter Change
Hello All - First time poster, long time viewer. I *think* this is going to be an easy one, I just can't figure it out. Here's the scenario.
1. System was functioning perfectly before I touched it
2. Turned Firomatic valve to the closed position located just before the filter
3. Opened the canister and changed the filter
4. Turned Firomatic valve to open position, no oil feed
So, the only possible thing I can think of, is that air go into the system during the filter change and any oil that was in the line back-tracked its way back to the tank.
The Oil is fed from a tank inside the home on otherside of the basement. The line starts at the base of the tank, makes its way vertically upward to the ceiling, across the basement ceiling and back down to the filter which is seated low to the ground. There is a tigerloop installed after the filter (but that should have nothing to do with my issue).
Breathing Tee
Image: http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/13/f785938460903b4c627e63b5bfae757c.jpg
Can someone explain this to me?
Questions about base under a paver stone patio
Hello,
I am building a patio with paver stones, roughly 20x16. I am building it on rocky clay in New England. I have dug out my soil and plan to put geotextile fabric over the clay before I lay my crushed stone and dust. I have a few questions and am grateful for any guidance:
~Is the fact that the clay is rocky going to cause any problems? I have removed as many rocks as I can but it is impossible to remove them all.
~Can the depth of my crushed stone base fluctuate so long as it is always at least 4" deep? After excavating and removing stones the soil bed is not a consistent depth- some areas have space for 4" of crushed stone but some areas could go as high as 8" or maybe even 12" of crushed stone. Is this ok? Does it matter if the soil bed is not perfectly even so long as it is compacted, has geotextile fabric over it, and the crushed stone is lever after installation?
~The patio will slope down 4" away from the house over 16 feet, which I believe is a good slope? I've also read that 2" over 16 feet would work?
Anyone with experience/knowledge on Lennox COWB3 oil boiler?
Had a contractor come quote me last week and this is what he proposed. He mentioned how the Lennox boiler was made by Dunkirk and has cast push nipples instead of gasket or steel nipples = good leak reliability. Throughout getting quotes and doing lots of internet searching over the past couple of months, I dont think I saw a single shred of info on Lennox or really any newer Dunkirk.
Any general info would be appreciated.
Weather permitting cedar siding stain?
I just purchased this house with neglected cedar siding. There is not much stain left, so you almost see bare wood. There are some areas with mildew. The boards are still sound, though. Since it's getting colder each day here in MN, should I get it power washed and stained immediately, or wait till next year to do it? It's going to be dry for the next 10 days according to the weather forecast, but temperature will be low 50s during the day (only a few hours) and high 30s at night. I guess this week will be the last window to get it done this year, if at all possible. But is it worth it to push it? Will the snow get the wood in even worse shape if I don't do something immediately? Or I'll end up with a bad job anyway since it's too cold if I try this year? Thanks!
Pitbull Alarm DIY alarm system
Attachment 39975 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/residential-commercial-security-devices-door-knobs-locks-keys-dead-bolts/39975-pitbull-alarm-diy-alarm-system-20141001_133120_richtone-hdr-.jpg)
Pitbull Alarm core component EPIR, which is a STANDALONE GSM ALARM SYSTEM with Built-in PIR sensor.
This DIY alarm system's price is more than two times better than most of the systems sold in USA.
Pitbull Alarm set contains:
-EPIR (core)
-WirelessContact/Shock Sensor
-WirelessPIR sensor
-Wireless Keypad
50amp motor coach hook-up
Greetings again:
Next to the underground fed 200amp disconnect and meter socket I plan on installing a 50amp recepticle for motorhomes to use while visiting short stays. From the 200amp panel, I'm using 3 #6 wires - red, black and white and a seperate #6 wire from a separate ground rod driven below the 50amp recepticle box.
The planned connections would be: red&black to the double 50 amp breaker, white to the neutral buss bar. At the recepticle box I would wire these 3 leads to the proper spots on the 4 connections of the recepticle - with the 4th connection being the separate ground wire to the ground side of the recepticle.
Questions: Will it work and will the white connection only to the neutral buss bar at the 200amp panel be enough to trip the breaker - keep in mind, the ground buss and neutral buss ARE connected together at the service panel.
Thanx
Resume for HVAC/R Position.
Ronald LaChance
Lchnc123@aol.com
________________________________________
OBJECTIVE
HVACR Technician, Maintenance, Installer with 2-3 years in...
No water in my floor heating loop
Okay, to me this one defies logic... I have a zoned floor heating set up and one pump which went to a sun room with no crawl space went bad last spring. I drained the water from the loop so it wouldn't freeze. I have now replaced the pump but I can't get water to flow into the loop.
It is fed off a pipe from the water softener. The pipe drops vertically to the boiler and in the middle of that pipe, the sun room zone Ts off, goes through a ball valve, through a back flow preventer, and into the loop.
There is water pressure in the boiler, (15 psi) and water in the other pipes that come from the main line from the water softener, however, no water if flowing into the sun room zone loop. I detached the back flow preventer, and no water is flowing to that either. Could the ball valve be stuck in the closed position, even though the handle opens and closes? Could there be too little water pressure to get water into the T section of the pipe? (The pressure from the well is at 50 PSI.)
If there was no additional water flowing into the boiler, wouldn't the pressure drop?
Any suggestions would be very helpful.
Thursday, October 16, 2014
Trane Life Expectancy
I'm under contract to buy a house that has a Trane XL 1100 gas/electric HVAC unit on it with a production date on the tag of 1995.
Should this be...
15 seer Attic Unit with a slab coil
found out after I bought it that the installation instructions called for a 4' straight duct before the slab coil:eek2:
Image:...
no water again
About 1.5 yr ago the county 'rebuilt' our single lane bridge at the start of our road. In the process they caused the water line to pop out of the creek bed. They said they wouldn't rebury the line because it belongs to the water company and not the county. The water company said it was the county's responsibility since they unearthed it.
I started calling late last summer worried that cold weather might freeze our water supply but the water company claimed they were always too busy. Surprisingly the water main only froze once. But a storm last winter ripped the pipe in two. So they put it back together but left it dangling above the creek. They said they'd bury it when the weather warmed up.
Fast forward to last night and the storm water ripped the pipe in two again :mad: I know they will have to wait for the creek to go down before they can make repairs so it might be tomorrow before we get water :( Wonder what excuse they'll use this time to not repair it correctly :rolleyes:
Ok, I'm done ranting. Guess I'll open another bottle of water to make coffee.
Removal of a load bearing wall
I am a Civil Engineering student at Uni of Liverpool, UK. I have an assignment to design a beam to support the removal of a load bearing wall for a 3 storey residential building.
I am not asking anyone to do it for me, but asking if anyone has any links/ copies of any documents with examples of the calculations involving the removal of a load bearing wall.
Many thanks in advance.
Ron.
Need 2 AHU's to share a pressire transducer
I have two large air handlers that share a common duct system. Supply Fan vfd's maintain a static pressure in the supply duct. Each machine has its...
condensate drain plug
My furnace was leaking a tiny bit from the plugged end of the condensate drain. It has a provision to drain either on the left and right side of this box. One side has a 3/4" pvc street elbow that goes to the trap etc. The other had a cheap plastic red drain plug with a 3/4 hex female socket and a slot for a flat blade driver.
That plug leaked.
I removed, it didn't look like there was much, if any, pipe dope on the threads. I reapplied dope and I think I fixed the leak.
However, the plug flat blade slot was stripped out when I got to it. So if I have to remove it again, it may need a new plug.
Can I just use a standard pvc plug? Is there one with a female hex instead of male? What would be a standard amount of tightness for this flimsy plug? The previous installer bottomed the sucker out (hence the stripping)... I applied dope and went snug but not bottomed out. I could still turn a screwdriver a few times im sure. Is that the proper technique?
Any tips for this seemingly easy fix?
Buderus G115 Antifreeze
I have a Buderus G115 -- I was trying to determine if Cryo-tek was safe to use with this heating system?
LARKIN ACUMALTORS
I couldnt help but noticing how small the acumalators are on larkin 5 hp condenser units . I have one now leaking from the very bottom I was just...
Replace Ceiling fan with Light Fixture
I am in the midst of replacing a ceiling fan with a light fixture. I want to ensure I have the connections right. The light is currently working with no issues but I have one concern regarding the ground wire.
Below is a summary of the wiring:
1. Light fixture has white, black, and bare copper ground wires
2. Ceiling wires (coming from switch to the box in ceiling) have white, black, red, and copper.
3. The box has a green ground wire screw.
What I did:
Considering buying a home with baseboard electric
I live in NY. It's a 2 story, 2300 Sq. ft. house. Got the utility bills. Averages about 450-500 during the winter months. They have a pellet stove downstairs. I'm looking at the house again on Friday with a heating/cooling contractor. Thinking about converting to natural gas forced air with central air.
How much does it usually cost to add those while adding the ducts?
Any cheaper alternatives?
Thanks! I know literally nothing about this.
HVAC Game Changer: Calculating System BTUs
The amount of BTUs a system delivers into a building can be effectively calculated when system temperatures and airflows have been measured. Here's a...
How to calculate floor load capacity
Can anyone explain how to calculate floor load capacity made of wood (joist)?
I found this website: How to calculate floor load capacity | eHow UK (http://www.ehow.co.uk/how_7485788_calculate-floor-load-capacity.html)
however when it comes to step 4, i cant seem to get a similar answer to the example. where does his joist space of 40cm come into the formula and what 'F' value he used.
Any advice will be very helpful.
Thank you.
Ron.
Air Handler Capacity ?
I'm going to purchase a Carrier system and have a question about air handlers. For a 4 ton air handler, what is the differentiation between...
Furnace exhaust slope
I understand the vent of a high effiency furnace is supposed to slope back toward the furnace so condensate runs back to the furnace.
However, is the air intake also supposed to slope back toward the furnace the same way?
Surprise behind bathroom mirror
Hello,
First post here, just wanted some more opinions on what I should/could do. I would consider myself an average DIYer around the house. Probably my biggest project to date is tearing out a fiberglass shower and putting in a tile shower. We bought our house about 12 yrs ago, about 5 years after it was built. My wife wanted me to replace the mirror in an upstairs bathroom. The mirror is about 3 ft x 5ft. I have done this previously in a bathroom downstairs. I got it off the wall and what is staring me in the face ( see the attached picture ).
Attachment 40128 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/walls-ceilings/40128-surprise-behind-bathroom-mirror-photo.jpg)
This is the wall that carries the 3" vent pipe. Obviously they didn't build this wall with 2x6's like they should have to allow for the 3" pipe to have a place behind the drywall. So they started putting up the drywall, realized their mistake and just cut a hole in drywall, knowing the mirror would cover it up. yes, I see the mold on sheetrock. The flashing on vent pipe had cracked allowing water to go down the pipe until it hit the wall where pipe is against it. I noticed the flashing issue right after we moved in long ago, and regularly go up on roof to check/repair all flashing.
If you are facing the wall, it has a 10ft ceiling on left hand side and then about a 7 ft ceiling on the far right side and is approx. 12 ft long. Under what was the mirror is a 7ft vanity, 2 ft space to the right, then toilet, then another 1ft space. ( Hope that makes sense )
My question is.. what should I do to fix it? I first thought.. fix it the way it should have been to start with when they got to this point.. tear down all the sheetrock, put 1/2" to 1 inch furring strips on outside of 2x4's, then put sheetrock back up. This would be my wife's choice, because then she can get a new vanity, toilet, floor, etc..LOL
2nd choice - tear out the sheetrock around pipe and replace it with 1/4" sheetrock and hope it still doesn't touch the pipe.
Flame sensor
I have a package with furnace ICP from 97. It had a smart valve. Flame sensor will show micro amps and then drop out so I replaced. How close should...
Painting radiator covers - how to match color and what tools to use
I have a 20 year old house. Heating system is hydronic with metal baseboards all over the house. All are the same color and design, a kind of pale ivory (not powder coated from what I can tell).
Situation is a follows: many of the radiator covers are dinged from normal use and 4 are severely corroded from dog and other mammals urine.
What I want to do is recondition the 4 badly damaged ones and touch up the others. The backboards cannot be removed so they need to be refinished on site. The covers and end-caps can be worked in the shop.
My problem: There is no equivalent color match in spray paint. Not Krylon, not Rustoleum, not Vaspar. If I want to do touch up, I need the color to more or less match.
My questions: How to proceed? What tools should I use? Low pressure spray system? How do I match the color? What kind of paint should I use? I know I can easily buy latex and get it color matched at HD or something equivalent but will that work on metal? Should I go with finer tools such as Testor air brush system?
Trane XL624 Thermostat
Is XL624 a true two stage heat thermostat that controls staging based on demand and not a timer or software algorithm?
Furnace XV95
If not a...
Certifications
I've been in the controls now for about 4 years. Besides vendor specific certifications are there any other certifications that can help as in...
Broken makita impact driver
Hi I have had two makita impact drivers in the past 18 months. Both of which have died the same way, smoke emits from the bottom on the shell and the light stays on, but no movement of the bit. I'm sure it's the switch motor burnt out but need a second opinion, as I would rather repair both instead of buy another one.
Cheers for your time :)
Air Wall Adjustment Specs For Hobart DRO 2G
I am in need of a chart showing the airwall gaps in a Hobart DRO 2G Bakery oven, s/n 680307291. Made by Hobart Canada, does not have ML number. I...
Air Wall Adjustment Specs For Hobart DRO 2G
I am in need of a chart showing the airwall gaps in a Hobart DRO 2G Bakery oven, s/n 680307291. Made by Hobart Canada, does not have ML number. I...
chosing printing in color/black and white
I couldn't print my pictures in B/W on my printer till a friend suggested using
'control P'. previously, my pictures were coming out in color.
I'm fuzzy on how to repeat this, and need a explanation,description
thanks
chosing printing in color/black and white
I couldn't print my pictures in B/W on my printer till a friend suggested using
'control P'. previously, my pictures were coming out in color.
I'm fuzzy on how to repeat this, and need a explanation,description
thanks
Creating change of state alarm in Niagara AX with Email notification
If you drop a change of state alarm extension onto a boolean point on your Jace and that point goes into alarm, how do you get that alarm up to your...
Creating change of state alarm in Niagara AX with Email notification
If you drop a change of state alarm extension onto a boolean point on your Jace and that point goes into alarm, how do you get that alarm up to your...
Idler Bracket
Any ideas how to fix this?
Attachment 40139 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/garages-garage-door-openers-work-shops-sheds-breezeways-carports/40139-idler-bracket-cam00184.jpg)
Stanley Garage Door Opener Front Idler Complete Pulley Assembly Part # 24856
Unfortunately, no longer manufactured and all online retailers don't have them in stock. If only it broke 5 years ago.
Right now I'm gluing it and perhaps going to reinforce with metal wire.
Idler Bracket
Any ideas how to fix this?
Attachment 40139 (http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/garages-garage-door-openers-work-shops-sheds-breezeways-carports/40139-idler-bracket-cam00184.jpg)
Stanley Garage Door Opener Front Idler Complete Pulley Assembly Part # 24856
Unfortunately, no longer manufactured and all online retailers don't have them in stock. If only it broke 5 years ago.
Right now I'm gluing it and perhaps going to reinforce with metal wire.
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